APR and COBB Tuning upgrades for the VW Golf R (MK7)

 

We showed up early to the HQ for some baseline dyno runs before we installed the COBB downpipe. The trek to the HQ is a long one and heading out early to beat the traffic is always key to a productive day in the shop.

With the car on the dyno, we get things up to temp so that our run data will be comparable. Martin is used to the Christmas tree of lights on the dash when we put the Golf R on the Dyno.

To put the Golf R in the Dyno mode perform the following sequence: Switch the car off, Turn the ignition on (no foot on brake), when the dash lights go off (ABS, Traction Contro, ect.) Switch the hazard lights on, pump the gas pedal 5 times and then you will see the traction control lights come on and hear some chimes. You are now in dyno mode and you can put the car in drive. The dyno mode will deactivate when you turn the car off or when the rear wheels move.

As we always do when we are installing performance modifications we needed to strap the car on to the SuperFlow dyno to get some baseline numbers. We specifically wanted to see the difference the downpipe made and so we had the new APR intercooler and spark plugs already installed. If you haven’t seen this project before and you are wondering why only the front wheels are spinning, that would be because this car has a dyno mode which allows the car to run in front wheel drive mode. The Haldex AWD system features a clutch in the rear differential that can decouple and not power the rear wheels.

Martin is operating the dyno and performing the baseline runs just like last time. He saves all of our dyno data so that we can reference back to previous runs for comparison.

8 comments

    1. I did think about doing that, but the intercooler was just too pretty. Also, the emicivity gains from the black paint job sort loose effectiveness once you start to have air flowing across the heat exchanger.

  1. how much more boost does the stage 3 tune tune? very surprised you only picked up 15 peak hp and 30lb ft with a hotter tune and big downpipe/intercooler. I suspect that if you get the TCU tuned, the numbers will jump up to where they ought to be. Also, any concern not having apples/apples because you changed the load parameters on the dyno between runs?

  2. Can anyone explain a couple of things?
    The MK7 Golf R is rated at 292hp at the crank from the factory. Generally speaking a AWD system will loose around 20% of power thru the drivetrain but….
    1. This Golf doesn’t have the Haldex system hooked up on the dyno?!
    2. If the 20% loss in power is a realistic number; that means that without the COBB downpipe/ APR IC and the COBB tune this Golf would only make around 210whp?
    If 210whp is a realistic number, that means that this Golf R (or any stock Golf R for that matter) have a drivetrain loose of about 29%?
    That is a HUGE % loss in the drivetrain considering this car is fairly new.

    1. As Billy pointed out above, I believe we will see even more power when we update the TCU. Also, the motoiq in house dyno does read low. I’m not a dyno expert, so I’m not exactly sure what difference the change to the dyno made to the power readings.

      1. Our dyno does read low, the power numbers don’t matter, they change from dyno to dyno, what matters is the difference in power when comparing to stock or prior mods.

      2. Thanks Isaac. I understand that the TCU has to be updated but my concern was about the fact this bone stock MK7 Golf R has a drivetrain loss of roughly 29%…..
        As Mike said, dyno numbers are not very important as each dyno read differently and temp/ humidity and other factors play an important role of how the ECU response…..but I’m still baffled a can this new can loose that much.

  3. I wish Cobb would release an option for S3 owners. I’ve been holding out, hoping they come around, but if they don’t I’ll likely get something from 034 Motorsports.

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