The resonated mid pipe section slides right in and attaches using the included t-bolt style clamps.
Here is the resonated mid pipe attached to the downpipe section. The slip joint fitting is snug and the included clamp fastens the two sections together very snug.
The rear section attaches to the factory exhaust with the use of the included reducer. The factory slip clamp attaches the factory exhaust to the reducer section, and the included t-bolt style clamp (not pictured here) will be used to secure the reducer section to the COBB resonated mid pipe section.
Howard gives the new downpipe a wipe down after he is finished with the installation. The mid pipe section will need a little bit of adjustment to get it lined up perfectly, but it is not a tough job to do. This installation is very straightforward and the provided COBB instructions are very thorough and you can easily tackle this job in the garage. You will need to have the car pretty high up on jack stands but that will be the only challenge.
Here you have the finished product after a few dyno pulls COBB includes a nice heat shield for the ABS module to protect it from the heat coming out of the downpipe. The heat can be quite excessive as you can see from the heat coloration on the downpipe.
8 comments
I would suggest painting your intercooler black for better effectiveness.
I did think about doing that, but the intercooler was just too pretty. Also, the emicivity gains from the black paint job sort loose effectiveness once you start to have air flowing across the heat exchanger.
how much more boost does the stage 3 tune tune? very surprised you only picked up 15 peak hp and 30lb ft with a hotter tune and big downpipe/intercooler. I suspect that if you get the TCU tuned, the numbers will jump up to where they ought to be. Also, any concern not having apples/apples because you changed the load parameters on the dyno between runs?
Can anyone explain a couple of things?
The MK7 Golf R is rated at 292hp at the crank from the factory. Generally speaking a AWD system will loose around 20% of power thru the drivetrain but….
1. This Golf doesn’t have the Haldex system hooked up on the dyno?!
2. If the 20% loss in power is a realistic number; that means that without the COBB downpipe/ APR IC and the COBB tune this Golf would only make around 210whp?
If 210whp is a realistic number, that means that this Golf R (or any stock Golf R for that matter) have a drivetrain loose of about 29%?
That is a HUGE % loss in the drivetrain considering this car is fairly new.
As Billy pointed out above, I believe we will see even more power when we update the TCU. Also, the motoiq in house dyno does read low. I’m not a dyno expert, so I’m not exactly sure what difference the change to the dyno made to the power readings.
Our dyno does read low, the power numbers don’t matter, they change from dyno to dyno, what matters is the difference in power when comparing to stock or prior mods.
Thanks Isaac. I understand that the TCU has to be updated but my concern was about the fact this bone stock MK7 Golf R has a drivetrain loss of roughly 29%…..
As Mike said, dyno numbers are not very important as each dyno read differently and temp/ humidity and other factors play an important role of how the ECU response…..but I’m still baffled a can this new can loose that much.
I wish Cobb would release an option for S3 owners. I’ve been holding out, hoping they come around, but if they don’t I’ll likely get something from 034 Motorsports.