NX GTi-R: Version 3

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Here's another view of the changes to fit the wastegate actuator and the Precision 5128 turbo into my NX's engine bay. Really quite simple. I used the end of the original wastegate's arm – it was longer and a perfect fit for my lightly modified bracket. Before you comment, yes, I know that the clip is missing. We actually used a GM style clip on this bracket. Almost foolproof. Believe me when I say that you don't want to have to replace this clip on the car – there is almost no room.
I think that every good engine builder is slightly OCD. Dave is an outstanding engine builder and pieces come off of the car and go to a spot where they stay for the duration. A spot for every piece – and every piece goes back to the same spot!

The head was checked to ensure that the deck was flat – and it was perfect. A Cometic multi-layered steel head gasket was sourced through PZ Tuning. Sasha was quick to point out that my plan to use a new Nissan GTi-R head gasket would not hold up to the power this engine's build could potentially produce. Following his advice – as he has built and tuned more SR20DE (T's) than anyone I know – is wise. Held in place by ARP head studs for the GTi-R, this engine is ready for boost. Now I have to work really hard to limit it to 325/350 whp! It is time for restraint!

 

While there are many time consuming aspects of building an engine, I am sure that the most time consuming aspect of this build was my Ishihara Johnson Crank Scraper. Yet it is worth the time, as it will allow all of the forged components in my build to function effectively. Mike wrote about the I-J Crank Scraper in his low budget SR20DE build. Jeff Daley, a Canadian NX racer and a good friend, installed it in his SR20DE and has been so positive about it that I knew it had to be part of this build. Last October I ordered it and, when Kevin asked if I wanted to remove the aluminum buldge in the pan I asked what was best. When he indicated removing it – I said that was what I wanted. It sounded so easy on the  phone. The bulge, however, was larger than I expected. Rather than grinding away at it myself, I took it over to my friend Will Au-Yeung at PZ Tuning. Will's welding is art, and I knew that he was the man for the task. To provide the necessary clearance the plate being welded in needs to be flush with the pan. Higher there will be interferance and the crank scraper componenets will not fit. Too low and it creates a pool where sludge can sit and potentially cause a future problem. Dave and I found that we also needed to reduce the height of the bolts holding the scraper pan together – clearance is so tight. Kevin had also prepared me for the fact that I would need to ensure clearance of the crank's rotating assembly. All done, ensuring we had clearance by rotating the crank with a wrench (before and after bolting everything in place) we also helped to bed in the Teflon blades. It was a lot of work but I know that it will be worthwhile.
The Teflon blades literally scrape the face of the crank, reducing windage thus freeing up horsepower. It was a ton of work, but it will be all worth it!
 

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