Project Cappuccino: Clutches, Oil Leaks, and Kei Car Oddities
Cappuccino Driveshaft & Exhaust
Next, most of the exhaust needs to be removed. The forward and mid sections need to be removed to clear the transmission and service the clutch. The Cappuccino is so narrow the exhaust and driveshaft are stacked on top of each other instead of being side by side like many traditional FR layouts. Once the exhaust itself is out, remove the heatshield to expose the driveshaft.
Cappuccino Driveshaft
The driveshaft bolts to the differential flange and has a center support bearing. Once both of these are unbolted, the driveshaft slips out of the transmission.
Cappuccino Clutch Linkage
Back under the car, disconnect the clutch linkage. The Cappuccino uses a cable instead of a hydraulic system to actuate the clutch. Loosen the adjuster until there is no tension, mark the position of the linkage relative to the release fork shaft (it should be nearly vertical), then remove the retaining bolt to free the linkage. Next, unhook the shift linkage from the back of the gearbox.  Now would also be a good time to drain the transmission.
Cappuccino Distributor
Now, things get tricky. Under the hood, disconnect and remove the battery. This will free up some working space and make it safe to remove the starter. It is not necessary to remove the distributor, but it’s only 3 bolts and makes accessing the upper starter bolt and the driver’s side upper transmission bolt a lot easier. With the distributor in place, getting tools between the engine, transmission, firewall, distributor, and heater hoses is a nightmare. It is doable, but having done this job both ways I recommend removing the distributor. Be sure to mark the orientation of the distributor and camshaft to preserve ignition timing.  While you’re up here, unplug the reverse light switch.  The connector is located near the starter.  Finally, remove both upper transmission bolts and the upper starter bolt before going back under the car.
Cappuccino Transmission
Earlier we removed the clutch cable arm. Removing it makes tool room to free the lower starter bolt.  Next, get the transmission jack and remove the lower two transmission bolts and pull the transmission free. Or if you’re the type of bro who lifts you can probably just yank it out by hand. It’s not that heavy…


  1. I love how tiny everything is.
    FYI the oversize gasket is meant to be cut off after installation, just before applying sealant.

    1. There were two different layers of silicone when I went in there 2 years ago and I reeeeeeeeallly didn’t want to be removing the entire transmission a third time! It may be small but it’s a PITA!

  2. I purchased the adjustable fly wheel tool you used. How did you get it to line up? None of the holes line up with the tool unless I am missing something incredibly simple.

    1. I put one stud in one of the upper transmission bolt holes (I want to say passenger side top but it’s been almost 2 years since I did this so I’m not 100% sure). Other one went into one of the casting recesses. There’s only one it really fits into. Pretty sure I had the tool set at its shortest length or close to it

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