We then spent an hour cleaning off every single bit of old pan gasket we could find. We used a wire brush to rough up the surface to improve the sealing ability of the RTV. This is not recommended on an aluminum engine block as you can gouge the machined surfaces, but the F6A engine in the Cappuccino is still cast iron. Take a moment to admire the adorable little internals of the Cappuccino engine.Next, we laid down a bead of fresh RTV on the oil pan. The bung crudely welded to the side of the pan is the factory oil drain for the turbocharger.Finally, we squashed the oil pan into place and torqued all of the bolts to factory spec. While we were under here, we replaced the oil filter and replaced the pan drain plug with a Cusco plug with a neodymium magnet. This has less to do with performance and more with me enjoying the income to buy silly little trinkets for cars that I could not afford in high school when JDM tuning was at its peak.The engine was then refilled with 3 quarts of 10W-30 Royal Purple HMX Synthetic oil. Our Cappuccino’s odometer currently shows 150,000 km (93,000 miles) so we wanted the extra protection of a high mileage motor oil. The HMX oil has zinc and phosphorus additives which act as wear and corrosion inhibitors. 10W-30 is slightly thicker than what Suzuki recommends, but with such a tiny oil capacity we want every bit of protection we can get to combat the abuse of turbocharging and a 9,000 RPM redline.We sent our flywheel to J-Tune Performance to have both contact surfaces machined to the correct spec. The flywheel bolts right back into place and we torqued it down to factory spec. There are lightweight flywheels available for the Cappuccino but we decided to stick with the factory flywheel. The stock flywheel is only 16 lb (because it’s so goddamn tiny) while a Monster Sport Chromoly flywheel is 7 lbs. A 7 lb flywheel is going to be a lot harder to drive in traffic so we opted not to go this route.
There were two different layers of silicone when I went in there 2 years ago and I reeeeeeeeallly didn’t want to be removing the entire transmission a third time! It may be small but it’s a PITA!
I purchased the adjustable fly wheel tool you used. How did you get it to line up? None of the holes line up with the tool unless I am missing something incredibly simple.
I put one stud in one of the upper transmission bolt holes (I want to say passenger side top but it’s been almost 2 years since I did this so I’m not 100% sure). Other one went into one of the casting recesses. There’s only one it really fits into. Pretty sure I had the tool set at its shortest length or close to it
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I love how tiny everything is.
FYI the oversize gasket is meant to be cut off after installation, just before applying sealant.
Christ on sale, are you sure you used enough silicone on that oil pan?! 🤣
There were two different layers of silicone when I went in there 2 years ago and I reeeeeeeeallly didn’t want to be removing the entire transmission a third time! It may be small but it’s a PITA!
I purchased the adjustable fly wheel tool you used. How did you get it to line up? None of the holes line up with the tool unless I am missing something incredibly simple.
I put one stud in one of the upper transmission bolt holes (I want to say passenger side top but it’s been almost 2 years since I did this so I’m not 100% sure). Other one went into one of the casting recesses. There’s only one it really fits into. Pretty sure I had the tool set at its shortest length or close to it