We noticed the oil pan was still weeping, so even though we only did this 1000 miles ago, we’re forced to re-seal the pan again.We used a gasket-cutting tool to cut through the old RTV and remove the oil pan. The rear main seal sits in its own housing that is removed with a couple of bolts. This is the correct tool for breaking seals: it’s essentially a razor blade welded to a block of steel so you can whack it with a hammer. When used correctly, it does not bend the flange of the oil pan.The old rear main seal was showing some scoring and burnishing on the wear face. It’s not leaking yet but based on what we’re seeing here it was getting mighty close.We purchased a brand new main seal and gasket from MegaZip. They stock all sorts of NOS (New Old Stock) parts and have a nice inventory of Cappuccino parts.We gave the housing a quick clean, then pressed in the new rear main seal.The new gasket was about ¼” too long for our housing. We secured the gasket with the alignment dowels, then sliced off the excess with a razor blade and reinstalled the housing onto the engine block.
There were two different layers of silicone when I went in there 2 years ago and I reeeeeeeeallly didn’t want to be removing the entire transmission a third time! It may be small but it’s a PITA!
3 comments
I love how tiny everything is.
FYI the oversize gasket is meant to be cut off after installation, just before applying sealant.
Christ on sale, are you sure you used enough silicone on that oil pan?! 🤣
There were two different layers of silicone when I went in there 2 years ago and I reeeeeeeeallly didn’t want to be removing the entire transmission a third time! It may be small but it’s a PITA!