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Make sure you use some penetrating fluid on the top nut. Pop this nut off, remove the lower bolt, then compress the shock by hand and work it out of the control arm.
Once again, the old shocks are higher tech than the OME shocks, but the OME shocks are longer. The Isuzu dampers are monotube type and aluminum bodied, unlike the OME shocks, which are steel and twin tube. Really trick stuff for an SUV, much less one that’s now 15 years old! Because new Isuzu shocks are so expensive, we did keep these and may have them rebuilt and resold. The OME shock includes all new hardware and rubber isolators, which is a nice touch. They also include a dust boot for the shock shaft to keep dirt out of the internals.
With the dust boot in place, the OME shocks are once again a perfect fit and easy to install, fitting right back into place. OME provides new isolation bushings and washers for the top mount. It is best to install the dust boot with the shocks bolted in at the bottom. Trying to compress the shock with the boot on is a bit of a pain.
You’ll notice we haven’t yet said anything about the front springs. That’s because the OME kit does not include any. Isuzu front ends are all double wishbone and use torsion springs instead of coils. The torsion bar can be seen right next to the framerail here, pressed into the lower control arm on the far left.
1 comment
I have really appreciated your Vehicross tutorials. I went with your advice on the Curt install and it made the project a breeze. I have a 1999 that I would like to tackle the lift on but with all the concerns you shed light on I am on hold for now. Looking forward to more of your posts.
Thank You