,
The Mustang has a very small hole at the top of the shock tower and smallish shock towers so the upper camber plate has very little adjustment range. Basically you loosen the mounting bolts and slide the plate back and forth in the tower. We first maxed out the camber plates and ended up with something just under 2 degrees of negative camber, nowhere close to the 3 degrees negative that we wanted to run.
Fortunately most KW struts have a slotted housing so you can also adjust camber at the bottom mount. We took full advantage of this feature.
Darren loosened the bolts and moved the wheel to get our last degree of negative camber.
We are now sitting at negative 3 degrees. This is an aggressive setting for street use and will impact tread wear to a degree but will greatly increase front grip.
With our camber set, it was now time to set the toe. We wanted 1/8″ toe out. Darren measured the difference between the front and the rear of the tire with this special bar.
Darren checks the distance at the rear of the tire.
Darren adjust toe by turning the tie rod end adaptor. He adjusted both sides until we got our 1/8″ toe out. With much more negative camber and toe out with our improved roll center and camber curve we have just increased front grip by a big amount.We are just about done with our Mustang’s suspension mods. All we will have to do is some shock tuning and it is time to hit the track to see how much faster our car is in hot lapping. Based on our experience with similar mods on other car, our changes will make a huge difference on the track.
Stay tuned, next time we will be adding some Ford Racing parts to get more power out of our Mustang’s Coyote motor.
Read more about project Mustang!
Sources
Ford Racing
West End Alignment
Borla Exhaust
AEM Intakes
HRE Wheels
See More of Project Mustang in the HRE Wheels Gallery
Nitto Tires
Whiteline
KW Suspension
