Project Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R – Part 6: Clutch, Diverter valves, catch cans, and Dyno testing. Going from terrible.
While there are other clutches that Spec offers to handle more power, we felt the Spec Stage 2-plus clutch—rated up to 445 lb-ft of torque—would be plenty. I don’t foresee us ever surpassing 400 lb-ft of torque by much in the future (if ever).
We also went with the lighter billet aluminum flywheel, which is manufactured to impressive-.001-in tolerances.
Since we were going to be attempting higher horsepower than before, now was a good time to get rear of the rear-steering “HICAS” unit, as I’ve felt that thing do funny things before. Through Enjuku Racing we ordered a Cusco conversion kit from Japan.
What this kit does is replace the steering rack with the two brackets and the new toe-adjust trailing arms replace the old tie rods.
With the old steering rack gone, it definitely makes for a cleaner look underneath.
With the added boost pressures the RB26 would be seeing, we were advised to upgrade to a TurboSmart IWG (internal wastegate) Twin port wastegate actuator, which bolts directly onto EFR Borg Warner turbos, like our 8374. Its fitted with a 14.5 PSI (1 BAR) spring pressure, which we left in, making it our minimum beast boost level (which we guess to be between 350-380 WHP), but could easily change out if needed. This particularly nifty unit also comes with a hall-effect position sensor for data logging.


  1. Hi Dustin, keeping the Borg Warner 8374 for sure! It’s good for 700whp so no need to go bigger and it’s just a great-responding and robust turbo that fits my needs for this car. Thanks

  2. I’ve always known that speed is a question of capital. It would be interesting to see what kind of investment you currently have.

  3. Appreciate the comment/question, Tim. I would have to go on a limb and say I wouldn’t really agree with that saying. As an example, I could have simply kept the old 67mm turbo/manifold setup, which was good for even more HP than this BW8374 is, and simply needed to upgrade my clutch, injectors, and fuel pumps to get to a similar hp level, vs all that I did. But I was going for a more refined package overall, which will take more money, yes. I don’t know exactly how much yet. But once you start to get into an engine build, simply add $10k to whatever parts you’ve already got going on.
    But if tuned correctly, an RB26 should be able to withstand up to 500whp on the top end if you limit the torque (because 500whp at 7800 rpm is just 337 lb-ft of torque at 7800 RPM), all you need to choose is your turbo, have enough fuel (injectors/pump), a decent clutch, and a preferably a 3-in exhaust. And then lastly your tuning or EMS. So the costs will depend on what you use, as it will vary greatly. And for anything well over 400 lb-ft of torque (which is 600+whp if torque is held at 8000 RPM), I’d start to think about an engine build (so, add $10k plus to that previous build).

  4. Hey Pablo, another awesome project, thanks for the updates! Your Supra series was so inspiring I took another(dirtbag cheap) way (is300) to hear some similar turbo noises. Also going to try my hand at writing an article about it. Good taste is cars and mods , it’s all about a fun ride for me too

  5. This is so funny. I also have a black r33, 8374 and the same te37s on mine. Loving the write up on the fuel system as I could use more fuel to hit my goals. Love these hope you keep it going!!!

  6. Looking forward to seeing the results, great format to follow the project through.

    Funny enough, i’m also nearing the completion of my own project after way too many years inside the garage, also a R33 GTR, painted in KN6 from factory, running a BW8374. Although running a 30/26 combo and external gates.

    It’s nice to see what solutions other people have decided to go with, looking forward to the next update!


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