Since the R33 GT-R was acquired with a knock-off, TiAL-style blow-off valve, we figured why not insert a TurboSmart unit here as well to ensure all boosted air is where it needs to be. The GenV Race Port with female flange features billet 6000 series aluminum construction, quick-release V-band collar, mil-spec hard-anodized valve guide and stem, and twin 1/8-in NPT reference ports.The GenV Race Port valve also features a 2-in inlet flowing over 330 CFM, and a high temp silicone Nomex diaphragm.Back at MKC’s dyno, we were excited to check out the Borg Warner EFR 8374, and see what it could do in the power and response departments. And we were going to start playing with boost numbers to get well north of 300 WHP, with the hopes of getting closer to 400 WHP. We’re loving the custom twin-tip exhaust MKC did for us, and you may notice the sexy Enjuku-sourced GReddy rear differential cover on there, which we’ll discuss at a later date!The blue line was where we were originally with the 67mm Boost Lab turbo that the car was equipped with from its previous owner. We had to stop at such a low power level because we were essentially out of injector (they were stock). But by the time we’d swapped out the fuel system, we’d changed everything in the turbo and manifold department, too. Unfortunately, just a few days before getting to the dyno, the car started to feel sluggish upon acceleration. You can see it because it was easy to reproduce on the dyno, too (ugly red line!). Sadly, we initially weren’t going to see anything close to our blue baseline.
It was very puzzling. We didn’t know if it was the clutch, the wastegate, or the turbo. But you can see the massive power dips, compared to what we had before with the blue line. It stunk because I was so excited to feel this new Borg Warner turbo/Full Race Engineering manifold setup!
One very positive thing we could see is that the BW 8374 turbo/ Full Race manifold combo was showing much improved turbo response already when compared to the response “tuned” blue line (67mm w/ HKS-style manifold)—about 300-350 RPM worth–and Chad had barely even started playing with the EMS.
After a bunch of research and numerous calls and emails, MKC figured out it was the cam angle sensor (aka CAS), which was still the original. Since we didn’t have another unit, they outfitted the internal disc with an AEM unit and reconstructed it with a thorough clean and…(drum roll)
Hi Dustin, keeping the Borg Warner 8374 for sure! It’s good for 700whp so no need to go bigger and it’s just a great-responding and robust turbo that fits my needs for this car. Thanks
Appreciate the comment/question, Tim. I would have to go on a limb and say I wouldn’t really agree with that saying. As an example, I could have simply kept the old 67mm turbo/manifold setup, which was good for even more HP than this BW8374 is, and simply needed to upgrade my clutch, injectors, and fuel pumps to get to a similar hp level, vs all that I did. But I was going for a more refined package overall, which will take more money, yes. I don’t know exactly how much yet. But once you start to get into an engine build, simply add $10k to whatever parts you’ve already got going on. But if tuned correctly, an RB26 should be able to withstand up to 500whp on the top end if you limit the torque (because 500whp at 7800 rpm is just 337 lb-ft of torque at 7800 RPM), all you need to choose is your turbo, have enough fuel (injectors/pump), a decent clutch, and a preferably a 3-in exhaust. And then lastly your tuning or EMS. So the costs will depend on what you use, as it will vary greatly. And for anything well over 400 lb-ft of torque (which is 600+whp if torque is held at 8000 RPM), I’d start to think about an engine build (so, add $10k plus to that previous build).
Hey Pablo, another awesome project, thanks for the updates! Your Supra series was so inspiring I took another(dirtbag cheap) way (is300) to hear some similar turbo noises. Also going to try my hand at writing an article about it. Good taste is cars and mods , it’s all about a fun ride for me too
This is so funny. I also have a black r33, 8374 and the same te37s on mine. Loving the write up on the fuel system as I could use more fuel to hit my goals. Love these hope you keep it going!!!
Looking forward to seeing the results, great format to follow the project through.
Funny enough, i’m also nearing the completion of my own project after way too many years inside the garage, also a R33 GTR, painted in KN6 from factory, running a BW8374. Although running a 30/26 combo and external gates.
It’s nice to see what solutions other people have decided to go with, looking forward to the next update!
9 comments
So once you have a built motor, how much bigger of a turbo are you gonna buy?
Hi Dustin, keeping the Borg Warner 8374 for sure! It’s good for 700whp so no need to go bigger and it’s just a great-responding and robust turbo that fits my needs for this car. Thanks
I’ve always known that speed is a question of capital. It would be interesting to see what kind of investment you currently have.
Appreciate the comment/question, Tim. I would have to go on a limb and say I wouldn’t really agree with that saying. As an example, I could have simply kept the old 67mm turbo/manifold setup, which was good for even more HP than this BW8374 is, and simply needed to upgrade my clutch, injectors, and fuel pumps to get to a similar hp level, vs all that I did. But I was going for a more refined package overall, which will take more money, yes. I don’t know exactly how much yet. But once you start to get into an engine build, simply add $10k to whatever parts you’ve already got going on.
But if tuned correctly, an RB26 should be able to withstand up to 500whp on the top end if you limit the torque (because 500whp at 7800 rpm is just 337 lb-ft of torque at 7800 RPM), all you need to choose is your turbo, have enough fuel (injectors/pump), a decent clutch, and a preferably a 3-in exhaust. And then lastly your tuning or EMS. So the costs will depend on what you use, as it will vary greatly. And for anything well over 400 lb-ft of torque (which is 600+whp if torque is held at 8000 RPM), I’d start to think about an engine build (so, add $10k plus to that previous build).
Hey Pablo, another awesome project, thanks for the updates! Your Supra series was so inspiring I took another(dirtbag cheap) way (is300) to hear some similar turbo noises. Also going to try my hand at writing an article about it. Good taste is cars and mods , it’s all about a fun ride for me too
That’s awesome, theneil, and thank you for the compliments!
This is so funny. I also have a black r33, 8374 and the same te37s on mine. Loving the write up on the fuel system as I could use more fuel to hit my goals. Love these hope you keep it going!!!
Looking forward to seeing the results, great format to follow the project through.
Funny enough, i’m also nearing the completion of my own project after way too many years inside the garage, also a R33 GTR, painted in KN6 from factory, running a BW8374. Although running a 30/26 combo and external gates.
It’s nice to see what solutions other people have decided to go with, looking forward to the next update!
Cheers!
Pablo! We need the next article dude, no more teasing