I got an oil feed line from ATP Turbo too, but I was way off on the length. Brendan of Dyme PSI came to the rescue. He brought Dyme PSI Rattlesnake kits used to mock up oil lines. Each kit is for a different size AN line. The kits include a variety of fittings in order to try any number of combinations to fit any arrangement.
For the oil feed, we mocked up a -4AN line going from the stock oil pressure sender location in the block to the oil feed of the Garrett G25-660. The stock oil pressure sensor is nothing more than an on/off switch. Oil pressure turns the switch off which turns off the light on the dash. So the oil pressure has to go to basically zero for the switch to close and turn on which in turn activates your dash light. By this point, your engine is already going to need a rebuild. Besides, I have my auxiliary oil pressure sensor with the ARK Design MFD2. Brendan mocked up the oil feed line and came up with this arrangement of a 90-degree fitting out of the block and a 90 into the turbo. That black fitting in the middle records how much twist is required between the two end fittings. Yeah…. I did have a 90 going into the turbo, but a straight into the block and the line was also about 8 inches too long. I was way off. And that’s the beauty of the Dyme PSI kit, you can mock everything up before creating the actual oil line and getting it right the first time.
This is the Rattlesnake kit for the -10AN lines which we used for the turbo oil drain line.
Dyme PSI makes this a no-brainer, no guesswork deal!
I had envisioned a 90-degree fitting going into the block. Not an almost 180-degree fitting. I would have been very wrong again. Brendan was careful to ensure the oil drain line was sloping downwards for proper drainage.
7 comments
That AN line kit is pretty cool, I haven’t seen that before.
Do you still have that alternate vented hood? Seems like it would come in handy to dissipate the heat from the turbo considering how high that air intake is in the engine bay.
Glad to finally see another post on this car. Always loved the chassis, it just needs some power to make it golden.
I gave that hood to the owner of Project AP1 S2000. I’m staying completely stock hood sticking to the sleeper stealth theme. A NACA duct right in the middle of the hood where the intake is would be optimal, but that would attract unwanted attention. While sitting stationary, the intake will suck up some of the warm air coming off the manifold/turbo. But I figure in first gear, the car will be traction limited anyway. Once the car is moving, I’m plumbing cool air towards the intake, so it should be sucking in near ambient temp air. We could possibly fab up an airbox to completely isolate the intake from radiator air, but I don’t think it’d be worth the effort.
That engine bay is looking mighty crowded, I don’t know if you could get some kind of snorkel to vent into the air filter like this:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-modifications-parts-193/custom-piece-fipk-snorkel-pics-728433/
Yeah, I understand wanting a sleeper. I had my first car stolen within six months because I put some chromed aluminum 17” wheels on it. When I got it back (with some crap steel wheels) I used the insurance money to search for the lightest, yet stock looking aluminum wheels I could find. I eventually turned it into an auto-X car, but I was always mindful to remove the race wheels and slicks immediately before going home.
Because of that initial experience, I have always tried to make my street cars look understated. I absolutely subscribe to the ‘sleeper ethos’….because, as you say ‘life.’
I have to admit… I was eyeballing a Dodge Viper hood NACA duct… I talked myself out of it to stay under the radar. Some of the air from the driver side bumper duct will work its way into the engine bay. The passenger side bumper duct will be the primary way to plumb ambient air to the intake. When the front bumper is fully mounted, there may be a gap between the top of the heat exchanger and the top of the bumper opening. If so, we can make another air diverter plate to force air to go over the top of the radiator like the snorkels.
Great build! Is the turbo manifold available for sale? Ready to purchase
I’m waiting to get my car tuned to determine the wastegate performance before I sell the one spare manifold. I’ve been driving it around, making sure all the small things are in proper working order before going in for a tune. I’m hoping to have it all ready by the end of September.