Note: A rounded hex impact driver gives you enough flexibility to reinstall the socket cap bolts that go into the driveshaft more easily.
Also note: A small bit of thread locking compound is used on the bolts that attach the driveshaft to the differential. Bart is using a die to run over the threads of the bolt to clean off the old thread locking compound. Do not use a permanent-grade locking compound or you will need to torch the hell out of the bolt to get it out in the future. A medium-strength compound is just fine. The bolt should be properly torqued. The locking compound simply helps to keep vibration from backing out the bolt. It is also a good idea to paint mark everything and check it frequently.
That was it! The whole job took about a day worth of shop time because Bart has the proper knowledge and the correct tools. If I had attempted to do this myself, it would have taken me several weekends worth of time, much frustration, probably bleeding, lots of cursing, and I would’ve needed to take various things to different places to get help.
At this point, the suspension is complete. No, really. There is nothing left that I can change from stock in the entire suspension. Everything has either been replaced or upgraded, from the core of the hubs/knuckles to the shocks and springs and everything in between. We have achieved full race-grade.
The only thing I could do from here is to upgrade to a NASCAR/speedway-style splined swaybar, which I really want to do. The OEM-style swaybar upgrade is designed to work with minimal effort for the average person, but the Whiteline bars don’t have a ton of adjustability, and I don’t particularly care for the end link design you are forced to use. I also don’t care for the way the bushings attach to the chassis.
Maybe I should drive the car first? I basically have no seat time with all these fancy parts.
So, with that, it was time to align everything. Again. For the n-th time. I decided that, from now on, I was going to do alignments myself. I don’t want to load the car on the trailer and tow it 35 minutes into town just because I want to check the toe. It would be nice to corner weight it, too.
With those thoughts in mind, I went off the deep end (I’m already off the deep end, I think) and bought the ultimate racer DIY alignment equipment. Tune in next time to see what that’s all about.