Note: A rounded hex impact driver gives you enough flexibility to reinstall the socket cap bolts that go into the driveshaft more easily.
Also note: A small bit of thread locking compound is used on the bolts that attach the driveshaft to the differential. Bart is using a die to run over the threads of the bolt to clean off the old thread locking compound. Do not use a permanent-grade locking compound or you will need to torch the hell out of the bolt to get it out in the future. A medium-strength compound is just fine. The bolt should be properly torqued. The locking compound simply helps to keep vibration from backing out the bolt. It is also a good idea to paint mark everything and check it frequently.
That was it! The whole job took about a day worth of shop time because Bart has the proper knowledge and the correct tools. If I had attempted to do this myself, it would have taken me several weekends worth of time, much frustration, probably bleeding, lots of cursing, and I would’ve needed to take various things to different places to get help.
At this point, the suspension is complete. No, really. There is nothing left that I can change from stock in the entire suspension. Everything has either been replaced or upgraded, from the core of the hubs/knuckles to the shocks and springs and everything in between. We have achieved full race-grade.
The only thing I could do from here is to upgrade to a NASCAR/speedway-style splined swaybar, which I really want to do. The OEM-style swaybar upgrade is designed to work with minimal effort for the average person, but the Whiteline bars don’t have a ton of adjustability, and I don’t particularly care for the end link design you are forced to use. I also don’t care for the way the bushings attach to the chassis.
Maybe I should drive the car first? I basically have no seat time with all these fancy parts.
So, with that, it was time to align everything. Again. For the n-th time. I decided that, from now on, I was going to do alignments myself. I don’t want to load the car on the trailer and tow it 35 minutes into town just because I want to check the toe. It would be nice to corner weight it, too.
With those thoughts in mind, I went off the deep end (I’m already off the deep end, I think) and bought the ultimate racer DIY alignment equipment. Tune in next time to see what that’s all about.
2 comments
At this point, I’m more interested in hearing about you getting your money’s worth out of this thing than more upgrades. That’s not to say the work recently posted isn’t first class, but if it can’t run the times it’s for naught. I’m genuinely curious how fast this thing is as is.
You and me both — curious how it’ll do. I got some lap times at Grid Life Road Atlanta last season and they were alright. Off the pace for NASA ST2 times but respectable considering I still didn’t even have a baseline for the car. Heck, I’m still figuring out starting tire pressure.