These bushings have several pieces that go in a particular order. Make sure to follow the instructions. Have I told you to pay attention? No? Pay attention.
The little cap piece goes on top of the crush tube (that’s what Superpro calls it), and then a metal washer goes on top of that before the factory bolt is used to attach everything back to the subframe. Pay… what is it? Oh, yeah, pay attention.
You’ll need to get the bushing onto this post when reinstalling the subframe. I can’t imagine trying to do this on my back on the floor with jacks. In reality there are two posts to line up with, and then the rear bushing carriers each have to line up with four holes. No thanks.
We hoisted the subframe into place using the transmission jack and then measured to see what part of the chassis was hiding the upper control arm’s nut.
Bart then marked the center, top, and bottom. And then, the cutting.
2 comments
At this point, I’m more interested in hearing about you getting your money’s worth out of this thing than more upgrades. That’s not to say the work recently posted isn’t first class, but if it can’t run the times it’s for naught. I’m genuinely curious how fast this thing is as is.
You and me both — curious how it’ll do. I got some lap times at Grid Life Road Atlanta last season and they were alright. Off the pace for NASA ST2 times but respectable considering I still didn’t even have a baseline for the car. Heck, I’m still figuring out starting tire pressure.