You would think that with a little tab like you see here, removing the tab would make the bushing pop right out. It does not, which makes you wonder what that tab is really there for. You especially wonder because this bushing is sandwiched between the subframe and the car and bolted in from underneath. Another weird Japanese engineering trick, I suppose. Maybe for NVH purposes? Maybe because during the manufacturing process the subframe ends up upside-down with the bushing in it, and it was falling out? Only the designer knows. Or one of you readers, perhaps.
This one came out surprisingly easily. So did the other. This might actually go well.
It doesn’t hurt, and it can only make it less of a pain to install the new bushings.
Note that the instructions make mention which factory/OEM bushings or components to retain. Pay attention.
To do the differential bushings, you need to detach the differential from the subframe. We used some axle tow straps attached to an engine hoist to raise the subframe off the differential, exposing the bushings. We didn’t even have to detach the axles, as we didn’t move the subframe very far away. Yet another bit of wisdom via experience. Bart is on a roll.
2 comments
At this point, I’m more interested in hearing about you getting your money’s worth out of this thing than more upgrades. That’s not to say the work recently posted isn’t first class, but if it can’t run the times it’s for naught. I’m genuinely curious how fast this thing is as is.
You and me both — curious how it’ll do. I got some lap times at Grid Life Road Atlanta last season and they were alright. Off the pace for NASA ST2 times but respectable considering I still didn’t even have a baseline for the car. Heck, I’m still figuring out starting tire pressure.