There are two other things to note here. The first thing is that we disconnected the bottom of the shocks. This is easier than trying to get into the trunk to remove the shocks from the top when the car is ten feet in the air.
The second thing is that the swaybar is disconnected from the lower control arm. It is easier to disconnect the swaybar from the control arm than trying to disconnect the swaybar from the chassis and drop it with the subframe.
Overall it really is only a dozen or so bolts to disconnect in to get the entire subframe out. Doing this on the ground, though, would’ve been miserable.
By the looks of it, I doubt this post has ever seen the world since the car was built. I wish the rest of the subframe was this clean. I was in a hurry, though, so I didn’t take the time to power wash the subframe. I promise it’ll get power washed and painted — someday.
A Sawzall will not cut it (pun intended). A Sawzall has a large, long, floppy blade. It tends to vibrate around and make really yucky cuts. If you just want to hack something out, a Sawzall can do the trick. If you’re going to make small precision cuts, this is the tool for the job.
Another handy tool will be an air hammer.
2 comments
At this point, I’m more interested in hearing about you getting your money’s worth out of this thing than more upgrades. That’s not to say the work recently posted isn’t first class, but if it can’t run the times it’s for naught. I’m genuinely curious how fast this thing is as is.
You and me both — curious how it’ll do. I got some lap times at Grid Life Road Atlanta last season and they were alright. Off the pace for NASA ST2 times but respectable considering I still didn’t even have a baseline for the car. Heck, I’m still figuring out starting tire pressure.