You will need to take care to sink the bushings to the proper depth in the subframe. If they are too deep, you won’t be able to get the spacers in between the bushing and the differential. If they are too shallow, the bolt won’t reach.
Once the front tabs of the differential housing are bolted to the subframe, the differential cannot move forward or backward.
You don’t want to try rotating it once it’s inserted in a dry hole. Lube it up and it will work better.
You don’t need to get the orientation perfect, but you want to get in the right ballpark. Otherwise, the bolt holes don’t line up at all, and you cannot get the bolts back into the differential housing.
2 comments
At this point, I’m more interested in hearing about you getting your money’s worth out of this thing than more upgrades. That’s not to say the work recently posted isn’t first class, but if it can’t run the times it’s for naught. I’m genuinely curious how fast this thing is as is.
You and me both — curious how it’ll do. I got some lap times at Grid Life Road Atlanta last season and they were alright. Off the pace for NASA ST2 times but respectable considering I still didn’t even have a baseline for the car. Heck, I’m still figuring out starting tire pressure.