The small prongs on the tee-nuts hold them to keep them from rotating as the bolt is tightened.
This ensures the mounts are square to the car (which assumes the car is square, but whatever)
Note that the mounts have slots. The slots give you a little adjustment fore-aft for the final splitter placement.
The upper slots allow you to adjust the height of the splitter somewhat, as well as its rake/angle.
Note that I messed up and didn’t properly explain to Nine Lives Racing about the hole’s location for the factory tow hook. As the design stands today, you cannot use the factory tow hook and the splitter mount simultaneously. This is because the mount blocks/covers the hole. I am working with them to rectify this. However, the mount does have a cut-out that goes around a stud that happens to be in the frame rail from the factory.
Morlind Engineering developed the ramps. Using them will increase exit flow from the splitter. Increasing the exit flow means more air goes under the splitter, which creates additional low pressure (downforce). The curved outer wall of the ramp generates a vortex for added low pressure under the ramp itself, which also increases downforce.
Ultimately you want to place the “scoop” inboard of the tire and as reasonably far back as possible. Cut the ramp’s core area out of the splitter with a jigsaw/skill saw, and then just screw the ramp into the splitter. There will be a follow-up article showing this process.
You also want the splitter (and the ramp) not to hit the tire. This picture shows clearly that the splitter has to move forward.
An extremely thorough race team would take the springs and swaybars off the car and move the wheel through the full range of motion (up/down and left/right) before locking in the splitter position. We guessed.