Then, a threaded tube will attach to the rod end, another rod end at the bottom, and another bracket on the splitter.
The rod ends are reverse-handed-thread from one another. One is right-handed and the other left. The tube is threaded appropriately. Because of this reverse-handedness, turning the tube either tightens or loosens it at both ends. This allows you to set the correct overall length by simply turning the stays.
A jet nut or k-nut is used on the bolts that go through the rod ends and the brackets. Jet nuts are slightly misshapen, which provides a natural locking force, and no locking washers or other hardware is required. Note, though, that jet nuts should not be used more than once, generally speaking. You can look up the MS21042 spec if you are curious. Unfortunately, there is no metric mil-spec jet nut, for your information. Pegasus Auto Racing sells metric nuts made to the MS21042 specification, though.
We also had to drill holes in the bumper to allow the stays to pass through from the nerf bar to the lower bracket. Figuring out the specific bracket locations, the length of the stay, and the angles was definitely a challenge of trial and error. But that’s what good fabricators get paid to do.
This thing looks like a real race car now! Unfortunately, I had a pretty lame weekend at National Corvette Museum for the #GRIDLIFE Time Attack. I popped off a bunch of boost hoses, got no good track time, and couldn’t go very fast. I can’t tell you if the splitter is doing anything yet. And the ramps aren’t on yet, either.
But don’t worry. I’ll be out there again soon enough. These minor setbacks won’t cause the band to split up quite yet.