PZtuning and William Au-Yeung’s Record-Crushing RSX
PZtuning RSX dashboard switches with painte’s tape labels
In addition to the factory dials, PZ has added a set of gauges from AEM to keep tabs on boost, exhaust temperature, and air/fuel mixture.

The switches are plainly labeled, and additional adjustment of the traction control (just visible at bottom) and boost are available as well.


PZtuning RSX dashboard switches with painte’s tape labels
Front-wheel drive transmissions are not normally hailed for their shifting crispness, feel, or feedback, usually because cables end up being used to actuate the shift mechanisms (as opposed to the direct actuation available on RWD layouts).

This mind bending shifter unit comes courtesy of Hybrid Racing. It features CNC-machined precision construction, ball bearings, rod ends, and is adjustable in myriad ways from the shifter height to the shift throw and even the gate spacing! Crispness, feel, and feedback obtained.


electrical cut-off switch on carbon panel
As with any race car, safety is important, and PZ has prominently placed their cut-off switch just to the driver’s left.


back half of RSX cage
While the RSX is “only” a time attack car, it still has a full roll cage in case things go wrong.

William fabricated the multi-point cage, fully TIG welding it.


    1. Lol, that’s where those spacers are … now I remember, needed them for the ZE40’s (they’re actually 24 offset, and minus 3mm for the spacers, so 21 offset). We usually run 57FXX’s that are 22 offset (and no spacer)

  1. You guys did an excellent video + article on fixing the EP3’s steering issues. Did they do any similar work on this car? I imagine they had to.

    1. All we have in our steering rack is a custom rack slider (which we had made), otherwise its all oem steering gear in it.
      That being said I’m sure there’s room for improvement there in this car – we actually retired the RSX in 2014 and have been slowly bringing it back up to competitive form, so we’ll keep developing it as we can!

  2. Well, you’ve got a lot of development to do. Here’s some freebees.

    Honestly, I don’t know why I bother, but whatever…when I get back on track, it will make the competition interesting.

    First of all..

    Why do you have the stock radiator mounting core? this is a freebee. but if you have hood locks, you don’t need all that shit, cut it out…save some weight, i did it on my car.

    bumper support? worthless…drop 20 lbs, right there. another freebee.

    Not the greatest cage…but, maybe your spring rates are not high enough?

    Factory crash bars? worthless 10 lbs.

    You got your spring rates all wrong, on on FWD, you run soft fronts, and stiff rears. Don’t need sway bars, for the rear, either. Run some neg camber, and some positive caster, and you’re golden on a Mac-Strut. Saves weight, too.

    If you had a ‘proper’ splitter you would be able to use those soft front spring rates to your advantage, because under brake dive you would get more grip. But, you need to have a front diffuser/splitter to do that. Which, obviously, you do not have, otherwise you would not have such a huge front splitter because you don’t need it because a front diffuser makes much more downforce, and far more efficiently. Look it up, on LMP1 cars.

    Wank, rear wing should be mounted to the rear frame rails. Period.

    Rear diffuser is beyond basic. For one, double decker. Secondly, lateral diffuser. Third, blown diffuser. If you know racing, you shouldn’t even have to look those terms up.

    Wank, lame side skirts. How about sliding skirts, FTW…maybe you can catch up to 1980’s F1 technology. Or are you that slow?

    Horrible front bumper design, you should have radiused inlets, obviously.

    1. You don’t need a double deck diffuser if you have enough room to make a large one. Also the golden rule of all things aero: you design to the rule set. Just because something is “the best” in one series of racing does not necessarily make it correct for another series.

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