PZtuning and William Au-Yeung’s Record-Crushing RSX
coilover behind brake rotor in fender
Fortune Auto Dreadnaught 2-way adjustable coilovers equipped with Eibach racing springs are found at the front corners.

Front spring rates are a relatively high 19kg/mm (~1060 lbs/in), but the rest of the front suspension is actually mostly stock. OE lower control arms use ESM Racing spherical bearings and the factory swaybar is used.

 

coilover behind brake rotor in fender
Fortune Auto’s multi-way adjustable dampers feature external reservoirs, and the front ones are located above the engine.

 

shock top in camber plate in shock tower
The Dreadnaughts rebound adjustment is located on the shock itself, while the compression adjustment is located on the canister. The Fortune Auto dampers also feature an integrated camber plate up front.

 

rear suspension viewed from ground behind tire
The rear suspension is similarly equipped, with Dreadnaughts here, too.

Also pictured is the absolutely massive ASR 32mm rear sway bar with adjustments on the blade. The rear spring rates are a bone-crushing 28kg/mm (~1570lbs/in), but simple Whiteline bushings round things out.

16 comments

    1. Lol, that’s where those spacers are … now I remember, needed them for the ZE40’s (they’re actually 24 offset, and minus 3mm for the spacers, so 21 offset). We usually run 57FXX’s that are 22 offset (and no spacer)

  1. You guys did an excellent video + article on fixing the EP3’s steering issues. Did they do any similar work on this car? I imagine they had to.

    1. All we have in our steering rack is a custom rack slider (which we had made), otherwise its all oem steering gear in it.
      That being said I’m sure there’s room for improvement there in this car – we actually retired the RSX in 2014 and have been slowly bringing it back up to competitive form, so we’ll keep developing it as we can!

  2. Well, you’ve got a lot of development to do. Here’s some freebees.

    Honestly, I don’t know why I bother, but whatever…when I get back on track, it will make the competition interesting.

    First of all..

    Why do you have the stock radiator mounting core? this is a freebee. but if you have hood locks, you don’t need all that shit, cut it out…save some weight, i did it on my car.

    bumper support? worthless…drop 20 lbs, right there. another freebee.

    w
    Not the greatest cage…but, maybe your spring rates are not high enough?

    Factory crash bars? worthless 10 lbs.

    You got your spring rates all wrong, on on FWD, you run soft fronts, and stiff rears. Don’t need sway bars, for the rear, either. Run some neg camber, and some positive caster, and you’re golden on a Mac-Strut. Saves weight, too.

    If you had a ‘proper’ splitter you would be able to use those soft front spring rates to your advantage, because under brake dive you would get more grip. But, you need to have a front diffuser/splitter to do that. Which, obviously, you do not have, otherwise you would not have such a huge front splitter because you don’t need it because a front diffuser makes much more downforce, and far more efficiently. Look it up, on LMP1 cars.

    Wank, rear wing should be mounted to the rear frame rails. Period.

    Rear diffuser is beyond basic. For one, double decker. Secondly, lateral diffuser. Third, blown diffuser. If you know racing, you shouldn’t even have to look those terms up.

    Wank, lame side skirts. How about sliding skirts, FTW…maybe you can catch up to 1980’s F1 technology. Or are you that slow?

    Horrible front bumper design, you should have radiused inlets, obviously.

    1. You don’t need a double deck diffuser if you have enough room to make a large one. Also the golden rule of all things aero: you design to the rule set. Just because something is “the best” in one series of racing does not necessarily make it correct for another series.

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