PZtuning and William Au-Yeung’s Record-Crushing RSX
front rotor with extended studs and caliper
StopTech ST40 calipers squeeze Hawk DTC80 pads onto a set of 328×28 rotors up front.


front wheel and fender
Rays Volk Racing ZE40, sized 18×10.5+22, are wrapped with 295/30 Hankook Ventus TD semi-slicks.


front wheel laying on ground showing massive tread
That’s a lot of meat.

But, what’s more impressive, is that the tires have 2014 date codes. Yes, they made their record-setting run on 4-year-old “new” tires. According to William, driving the first few laps was like driving “on ice, with the front and rear both trying to step out mid-corner”.


rear wheel and quarter panel
Curiously, the RSX wears 17×8.5 rears with 255/40 TDs.

There are two reasons for the staggered setup. Normally PZ would run 18s at all four corners, but would still run a narrower tire in the rear. This is mostly to maximize front grip, and not expressly to induce rotation. However, due to the Limited class rules, and available tire sizes, the RSX wore 17s for Global Time Attack at Road Atlanta.

The rear brakes are still the OEM Acura RSX units with slightly less aggressive DTC30 Hawk pads.


    1. Lol, that’s where those spacers are … now I remember, needed them for the ZE40’s (they’re actually 24 offset, and minus 3mm for the spacers, so 21 offset). We usually run 57FXX’s that are 22 offset (and no spacer)

  1. You guys did an excellent video + article on fixing the EP3’s steering issues. Did they do any similar work on this car? I imagine they had to.

    1. All we have in our steering rack is a custom rack slider (which we had made), otherwise its all oem steering gear in it.
      That being said I’m sure there’s room for improvement there in this car – we actually retired the RSX in 2014 and have been slowly bringing it back up to competitive form, so we’ll keep developing it as we can!

  2. Well, you’ve got a lot of development to do. Here’s some freebees.

    Honestly, I don’t know why I bother, but whatever…when I get back on track, it will make the competition interesting.

    First of all..

    Why do you have the stock radiator mounting core? this is a freebee. but if you have hood locks, you don’t need all that shit, cut it out…save some weight, i did it on my car.

    bumper support? worthless…drop 20 lbs, right there. another freebee.

    Not the greatest cage…but, maybe your spring rates are not high enough?

    Factory crash bars? worthless 10 lbs.

    You got your spring rates all wrong, on on FWD, you run soft fronts, and stiff rears. Don’t need sway bars, for the rear, either. Run some neg camber, and some positive caster, and you’re golden on a Mac-Strut. Saves weight, too.

    If you had a ‘proper’ splitter you would be able to use those soft front spring rates to your advantage, because under brake dive you would get more grip. But, you need to have a front diffuser/splitter to do that. Which, obviously, you do not have, otherwise you would not have such a huge front splitter because you don’t need it because a front diffuser makes much more downforce, and far more efficiently. Look it up, on LMP1 cars.

    Wank, rear wing should be mounted to the rear frame rails. Period.

    Rear diffuser is beyond basic. For one, double decker. Secondly, lateral diffuser. Third, blown diffuser. If you know racing, you shouldn’t even have to look those terms up.

    Wank, lame side skirts. How about sliding skirts, FTW…maybe you can catch up to 1980’s F1 technology. Or are you that slow?

    Horrible front bumper design, you should have radiused inlets, obviously.

    1. You don’t need a double deck diffuser if you have enough room to make a large one. Also the golden rule of all things aero: you design to the rule set. Just because something is “the best” in one series of racing does not necessarily make it correct for another series.

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