These are Comp Cam’s optional coil brackets to mount the coils to their valve covers.
Stay tuned. In our next story we are going to cover assembly of the motor and the steps we take to assure durability, even under tough use. Hopefully, our motor will put out power in the low 500 whp range and serve Falken for a long time to come.
7 comments
Do you think using thermal paste (ala CPUs) would help increase heat transfer on the main bearings?
Might aid in bearing spinning. Usually, engine builders advocate a tight fit on the main saddle for best heat transfer.
it won’t one bit: It will just desolve in oil. Let alone the chunks that get stuck at the oil pickup or the bearings. It just will not work if you really want to remove heat: Graphite paper. Bit that will nog keep the bearing in place. A graphite-silicon based sealer will most likely transfer heat a little less, but will be more resillient to spinning bearings.
Then again: Bearings normally won’t spin that much, unless there are either opposing forces ( flat 4’s for instance) or when the stroke gets to large compaired to the connecting rod. It isn’t so much extra power as it is the rod stroke length.
Mike – any thoughts on using a stock 4.8 crank to reduce the stroke and increase the rod length?
For a road racing or circle track car sure. A drift car needs grunt so I don’t think I would ever destroke one. Mange rod ratio, yes but not destroke. For Dai Yoshihara’s engines, I run a big 4.250 stroke for grunt but also run a super long 6.350 rod with a tall deck block. This gives a stroke to rod length ratio of 1.494:1 which is within the realm of OEM production engines yet still packs a bunch of displacement into a small package. One of our older blocks with a big bore gives us 477 cubic inches!
Mike – What is the best roller rocker / shaft roller rocker option for a stock ls3 head?
For drifting with lower rpm, probably Crower.