The cams were carefully torqued down in an X pattern from the inside out. You have to be very careful when doing this and only tighten the caps a little at a time or you can crack them or the cam.
Next, the MIVEC cam timing gears, chain and chain guides were installed. After that, we installed the front cover.
For our high power builds we really like to use a good harmonic balancer. In this case an ATI that was part of our Magnus Motorsports dry sump system.
When it comes to high power engines, especially ones that live at high G-Forces, we feel that adding a dry sump lubrication system really helps assure long engine life. It is a big upfront cost but you save money in the long run due to longer engine life. Your stock wet sump oil system has a sump or oil pan on the bottom of the block where the engines oil all drips down too and a pickup that sucks oil from the sump to a small single stage pump that supplies the engine with oil. At high G-Loads the oil can slosh away from the pickup causing your engine to monetarily loose oil pressure. Also the oil in the sump tends to be foamed up at high RPM with a lot of foamy oil with entrapped air getting pumped to your engine. Foamy oil does not lubricate well.
A dry sump is a powerful multi stage pump that literally sucks the engine’s crankcase dry and pumps the oil and air mixture to a large external tank were it is deaerated and coalesced into airless oil which is then pumped back into the engine. Dry sumps assure that the engine always has an adequate amount of oil no matter what the conditions and how hard the G-forces are. Dry sumps also run the crankcase at a slight vacuum which improves ring seal and removes the mist of oil and air inside the crankcase that the rods and crank have to spin through. At high rpm, this mist can have a lot of resistance and drag on the spinning parts of the engine which is called windage losses. By reducing windage loss and by improving ring seal, a dry sump system usually adds around 10-20 more horsepower!
We used a Magnus Motorsports dry sump kit part number MMCENG6000 to assure that our 4B11 is always well lubricated. The kit uses a Peterson R4 4 stage pump with 3 scavenge stages that suck the oil out of the crankcase and one pressure stage to supply the engine.
7 comments
interesting comment about the valve job. my experience has been the dimensions and operator are more important than the machinr.
Just some random advice: Manganese bronze needs bigger tolerances compaired to steel guides: They tend to pinch valvestems when warm. Ask me how I know….
A Newen is a CNC single point cutter that cuts in a continuous radius instead of steps. It can also be programmed to open up the seat and blend the seat into the bowls.
How did Toyota make the cylinders of the 2AR-FE’s block so damn strong and rigid? It greatly exceeds the typical limts Honda’s stock cylinders and it even goes pass this semi closed deck 4B11T.
If you are doing any kind of racing that last more than a 1/4 mile, like a 30 minute road racing session, that 4Piston cylinder head will not last long. Expect to find no more valve clearance. Their valve seat job is very poor.
They talk alot and do good marketing on social networks but when there is a real quality problem due to their work they don’t follow up and look for excuses.
We solved this issue by doing a new valve job with new seats and new valves.
This same issue happened on 4 distinct heads all from 4Piston. This same problem happened to a well known USA drag racing team…
And that is exactly what happend to us and we had to redo the valve job!
4piston👎👎