The fuel temp sensor ring terminals are attached to the correct terminal as marked on the bottom of the hanger/
Now the hanger is ready to be installed into the car.
The fuel level sender plugs are connected and the hanger is lowered into the tank. The sender is then attached to its place on the hanger. Now the hanger can be bolted down to the tank.
Next, the fuel lines and the return lines are connected to the hanger.
Now the stock plug has its wires cut off, these are for the pump power and the fuel level sending unit, and the fuel temperature sensor.
4 comments
While it was not explicitly stated in your article, ensure you are using correct heat shrink for anything submersible. Stuff like Raychem DR25 is not ethanol/methanol safe.
This was the supplied heat shrink, I assume it is DR25, thats what we also use for our own use.
I like the idea and intension of the catch tank part, find it a bit small comparing to the double 340l/h pumps. On this size ist empty in les than 3 sec acceleration.
Have you measured the restriction of the 7mm fuel lines with the two pumps tunning at idle? Normally with one pump at idle you increase it by 0.6-0.8bar at the pump compared to the fuel rail.
Also the oem wiring was made for 6-8Amp pumps, these with the increased pressure are sucking on boost about double making 2volt drop in voltadge so loosing about 30% flow and heating the wire.
The wiring is all redone with heavy gage, direct to the battery and its own relays.