Installation and testing of the KW 2-Way Clubsports on the Devine Force Racing Time Attack STi

Be sure when tightening the top nuts and screws, you follow the torque specs provided in the instruction manual by KW.

Brandon from B3, removing the standard Clubsport 8kg springs and installing the new 12kg springs on the rear KW coilovers.  Stiffer rear springs than front are not that strange because the rear suspension has a 0.78 motion ratio vs the 0.9 front which makes the effective wheel rate just a little stiffer in the rear.  This will help balance the nose of the heavy STI and have a better front to rear chassis frequencies for less bobbing and tire shock.  The car will also rotate, sometimes sharply on trail braking and lift throttle so these spring rates are not advisable for beginning drivers and street driving.

Changing the rear springs are very similar to changing the fronts. The biggest difference is there’s no camber plate but, a top plate with a spherical bearing for the shock shaft.  Having the spherical bearing here is good because it gets rid of a big squishy rubber bushing that can deflect, causing the car to lose camber and also have undamped motion on the shock shaft. There are four Allen bolts that need to be loosened to gain access for the shock shaft nut to remove the rear springs as you can see in the pictures above.  Brandon also applied some Loctite blue on the main bolts holding the top hats to the chassis to keep them from vibrating loose.

The camber plates of the front KW coilovers installed on the STi.  We have it adjusted fully negative.

With the Clubsports assembled and the new stiffer springs installed, they can now be bolted into the car. The three bolts holding the front camber plate to the chassis are tightened, then the two bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle are put in place and tightened.  A little bonus that KW provides is that the top strut to knuckle bolt hole is actually slotted which can help add additional degrees of negative camber adjustment.  We ended up using all there was for a track use alignment settings. 

Front KW coilovers attached to the strut and knuckle.  The upper bolt hole is slotted for additional negative camber adjustment.  Having the camber adjustable down here also means that with a combination of camber plate and lower bolt hole adjustment, you can adjust the front scrub radius and the kingpin inclination angle.  This is helpful if you are doing advanced chassis tuning with wide tires.


  1. Nice setup, I’ve always been a fan of that KW stuff.
    The rear compression knob looks unreachable though.
    Also, In my opinion it’s better to do the initial camber setup with the plates centered, so that you can still increase the camber yourself afterwards if needed.

    1. The compression adjuster is on top of the shock shaft accessible through the trunk. It doesn’t get any easier than that! When the car has trouble getting enough negative camber using all the adjustments it has, then the plates are not centered. The author talked about not having enough negative camber in the story. Since I worked on the car, it used all of its adjustment in that direction and some modifications will have to be made in the future to get more because the car still doesn’t have enough front negative camber even when adjusted all the way in that direction.

      1. Hi Mike,
        I had V3s on my GD back in the days, and I’m pretty sure that on 2 way KW shocks the compression adjuster is on the lower side of the strut, as stated on page 3 of this story (but I may be mistaken).
        Looking at the photos, it looks like the knob is stuck between the shock body and the lower arm and barely accessible, but pictures can be misleading.

        Regarding the camber, if you were trying to get the maximum possible camber right from the start, then yes it makes sense, mea culpa. I thought you had set a target value then noticed it was not enough when testing the car on track.

        I hope my english is not too broken. Posting from France 🙂

  2. Hey Mike, What would be the optimal alignment settings (for the track with the VA chassis) front and rear if given full adjustablility?

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