Be sure when tightening the top nuts and screws, you follow the torque specs provided in the instruction manual by KW.
Changing the rear springs are very similar to changing the fronts. The biggest difference is there’s no camber plate but, a top plate with a spherical bearing for the shock shaft. Having the spherical bearing here is good because it gets rid of a big squishy rubber bushing that can deflect, causing the car to lose camber and also have undamped motion on the shock shaft. There are four Allen bolts that need to be loosened to gain access for the shock shaft nut to remove the rear springs as you can see in the pictures above. Brandon also applied some Loctite blue on the main bolts holding the top hats to the chassis to keep them from vibrating loose.
With the Clubsports assembled and the new stiffer springs installed, they can now be bolted into the car. The three bolts holding the front camber plate to the chassis are tightened, then the two bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle are put in place and tightened. A little bonus that KW provides is that the top strut to knuckle bolt hole is actually slotted which can help add additional degrees of negative camber adjustment. We ended up using all there was for a track use alignment settings.