Installation and testing of the KW 2-Way Clubsports on the Devine Force Racing Time Attack STi

Installing the rear coilovers are just as easy as the fronts. The carpeted lining in the trunk does need to be pulled back to be able to access the two top hat bolts to install and tighten them, so make sure to remove all the tools, extra clothes and whatever else you have hiding in there before starting the install of the rear coilovers.

The rear left mounting point for the top hat of the rear KW coilovers exposed.

On the bottom, there’s one bolt that connects the coilover to the lower control arm and it’s easier if you slide the shock over this mounting point first and then use a jack to raise up the lower control arm assembly until it’s inner pivot bolt is flush with the hole in the mounting point on the frame.  Then you can re-install the inner pivot bolt through the holes and your new coilovers are in place!

Rear KW coilover attaching to the lower control arm.  You can see the purple anodized knob that adjusts the compression damping here.
Rear KW coliover attached the lower control arm.

6 comments

  1. Nice setup, I’ve always been a fan of that KW stuff.
    The rear compression knob looks unreachable though.
    Also, In my opinion it’s better to do the initial camber setup with the plates centered, so that you can still increase the camber yourself afterwards if needed.

    1. The compression adjuster is on top of the shock shaft accessible through the trunk. It doesn’t get any easier than that! When the car has trouble getting enough negative camber using all the adjustments it has, then the plates are not centered. The author talked about not having enough negative camber in the story. Since I worked on the car, it used all of its adjustment in that direction and some modifications will have to be made in the future to get more because the car still doesn’t have enough front negative camber even when adjusted all the way in that direction.

      1. Hi Mike,
        I had V3s on my GD back in the days, and I’m pretty sure that on 2 way KW shocks the compression adjuster is on the lower side of the strut, as stated on page 3 of this story (but I may be mistaken).
        Looking at the photos, it looks like the knob is stuck between the shock body and the lower arm and barely accessible, but pictures can be misleading.

        Regarding the camber, if you were trying to get the maximum possible camber right from the start, then yes it makes sense, mea culpa. I thought you had set a target value then noticed it was not enough when testing the car on track.

        I hope my english is not too broken. Posting from France 🙂
        Greetings

  2. Hey Mike, What would be the optimal alignment settings (for the track with the VA chassis) front and rear if given full adjustablility?

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