Again, like the front, the hub face needs to be cleaned, but unlike the front, the dust shield needs to be trimmed more aggressively.
This is what you'll end up with after attacking it with tin snips and the steady hands of an over-caffeinated child on Christmas morning.
The caliper bracket mounts on using the existing hardware like such. Make sure to torque these down properly as the bottom bolt will not be accessible after the rotor and caliper are in place.
The caliper is then mounted to the caliper bracket and torquing this down can be a difficult task as access to the bottom bolt isn't the easiest.
I ended up jacking up the suspension and using a long extension to simplify the task. This worked out great for me, but others might have a different solution for getting a torque wrench on the bolt.
At this point you have to grind a little nub off of the OEM caliper bracket as it interfers with the hardware on the DBA rotors. Just a little off the top is all you need as they touch ever so slightly.
The rotor is mounted and the new pads installed before swinging the caliper back in place. Then, install and tighten down the bolt that was under the plastic cap that was removed earlier. Ensure you have your parking brake line mounted back to the chassis and lug nuts securing the rotor to the hub as next, you'll have to tighten down the parking brake adjuster. You'll get back in with your hex wrench and tighten the screw until the pads seat again the rotor face. Then you'll back off the screw about a 1/3 of a turn so the rotor turns freely and allows for any expansion due to heat. With that complete, reinstall the bolt on the back of the caliper that was removed to get access to the hex screw.