We used a puller to remove the hub.
The bolts holding the hub to the knuckle are removed.
Now the hub and backing plate can be removed.
Here is the backing plate and dust shield.
To increase the amount of cool air to the hotter running CCM rotor, we are removing the dust shield. First, we dimple the spot welds holding the dust shield to the backing plate with a small drill bit.
Next, we drill out the spot weld with a spot weld removal bit.
11 comments
As always, great content. Thanks for all the info on parts I can only dream of having. I feel I can’t even afford to read the article. (I’m one of your IG followers and long time SCC subscriber)
I personally don’t think they are cost-effective but they sure are cool!
did you guys weigh the rotors? kinda curious about the actual weight difference over just the generic 30% lighter…
Yes on the last page, we saved 40.4 lbs over the OEM brake system.
With such a difference in rotor diameter and a greater difference front vs rear, does the brake bias change at all? 40lbs of rotating and unsprung mass saved is crazy. Makes the price seem realistic if you’re chasing the absolute best feeling possible.
No, it doesn’t change, it’s factory-engineered.
I had always been told that larger rotors on a street car are actually detrimental, since it takes longer for them to reach optimal temperature for good braking. Does the same apply to carbon ceramic rotors?
That’s not true at all. Bigger brakes allow you to run streetable less aggressive pads on the track. Race pads will literally eat rotors on the street in a few hundred miles. Big brakes allow true dual-purpose use. More brake power is typically also easier to modulate.
Just out of curiosity, can you recommend any places to source these on the used Japanese market like you guys did?
I used google to find a set and had a Japanese friend ship them to me.
There’s a website called, Croooober.com, that you might want to check out.