Project S-Turdteen Fixing the Transmission

The sealant was applied to the case.

The gears were dropped int the case and tapped into place.

Next sealant was applied to the other side of the center support.

The tail shaft was installed and bolted down.

The car’s tired clutch was replaced with ACT’s XT/Race unit.  The pressure plate on this clutch has 168% more torque capacity than the stock clutch. It can withstand up to 475 lb/ft of torque. With a drift car, it is important to have excess capacity as drifting is brutal on clutches. Even though the pressure plate has a lot higher clamping capacity, due to the careful engineering of the diaphragm spring, the pedal effort is only moderately increased.

The XT clutch disc has six ceramic/metallic pucks for good bite at elevated temperatures with the ability to slip to impart some degree of smoothness.   The sprung hub helps reduce some of the shock to the transmission, important for a car like this where the transmission is not that strong.  This clutch should work exceptionally well on a drift car with our planned power level.


  1. The 3rd gear always goes first on these transmissions. This is caused by the shafts flexing; the 3rd gear pignons get further and further from each other, until there is not enough material in contact and they break.
    The only way to prevent this is to actually NOT use 3rd gear. Even OS giken gear sets and input shaft replacement break the same way, once over 350/400 engine HP on a SR. It will break with just sticky road tyres, without LSD.

    I am actually looking for a (cheap) solution to this too. The CD009 swap looks tike the cheapest one, but it has some drawbacks… mainly a totally useless 1st gear, and not enough main shaft engagement. More expensive solutions include PPG and Elite dogboxes, but i would really like something in between.

  2. That is the easiest and cheapest swap to my knowledge too. We are going to hold the power down below 300 in the meanwhile.

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