A socket was used to tap the new pilot bearing in place.
We used an old input shaft from the old transmission parts pile to act as a clutch alignment tool. If you have ever done this they make the best clutch alignment tools by far! With an input shaft as an alignment tool the disc lines up super well and the transmission mates very easily.
The pressure plate was tightened and torqued down in an X pattern.
With the clutch and flywheel installed we were finally ready to mate the engine to the transmission.
The new throwout bearing was pressed onto the throwout sleeve. This was placed on the input shaft of the transmission and attached to the throwout arm.
Now we could mate the engine and transmission together. The refreshed engine is ready to get installed into the chassis!
Stay tuned in our upcoming editions, we will get the engine in the car, improve the cooling and get it running again.
3 comments
The 3rd gear always goes first on these transmissions. This is caused by the shafts flexing; the 3rd gear pignons get further and further from each other, until there is not enough material in contact and they break.
The only way to prevent this is to actually NOT use 3rd gear. Even OS giken gear sets and input shaft replacement break the same way, once over 350/400 engine HP on a SR. It will break with just sticky road tyres, without LSD.
I am actually looking for a (cheap) solution to this too. The CD009 swap looks tike the cheapest one, but it has some drawbacks… mainly a totally useless 1st gear, and not enough main shaft engagement. More expensive solutions include PPG and Elite dogboxes, but i would really like something in between.
That is the easiest and cheapest swap to my knowledge too. We are going to hold the power down below 300 in the meanwhile.
It s been more than a year ,how has this transmission held out so far
Were there any damage or drawbacks with the wpc treatment ?