I used this gauge holder from Holley Performance with 3M tape and ran the wires for the AEM down the side of the steering column.
I drove around for a bit with the AEM wideband installed and I set it to display Lambda instead of air:fuel ratio. I did a crap job of routing the harness for the sensor and it ended up getting sliced by a metal bracket. That in turn shorted out the gauge. Well, first I had a 5A fuse in the power line and it would just blow the fuse. Then I did the stupid thing before really troubleshooting and put in a 10A fuse which allowed the gauge to fry. Oops. Well, long story short, I ended up removing the wideband.
In order for the Hondata KPro to control the Hondata 4-port boost solenoid, the solenoid is wired into the circuit for the EVAP purge solenoid. The solenoid and connector are located down the driver’s side, near the ABS module.
Some people wire into the circuit at the ECU. Some cut into the two wires for this connector. I decided to just jam the wires into the connector itself. It’s not elegant, but effective and 100% reversible. The wires I used are pretty stiff, so it jammed in easily. I did this wire bend and electrical tape wrap job to act as a strain relief. I know, it’s ugly and not what I’d call proper wiring.
I wrapped the heck out of it to seal it up to protect against dust and dirt.
2 comments
That’s the same pump I put in my tow pig. It’s a supercharged 454 making 450 or better at the crank with north of 600 ft/lb per Whipple. I checked the draw on the 15A fuse and determined this wasn’t going to put it over so didn’t bother with the hot wire. I figure it’s still way more pump than the motor needs. The local shop recommended the AEM as a lot of the others seem to be junk. Knock on wood, so far so good for me.
The stock Honda pump power wire is only ~16 AWG which is good for roughly 15A. The AEM 340 pulls up to 15A, so it would really max out the stock wiring. I’m much of the philosophy of overkill sizing for better reliability.