I chose to install the fuel injectors into the intake manifold first and then install the fuel rail to the injectors. Remember to lube the o-rings. At this point, it was just bolting everything back down.
This picture shows everything buttoned back up. I had also extended the Intake Air Temp sensor harness to reach the new IAT sensor location in the cold-side charge pipe before the throttle body. I had a stock IAT sensor from when I did the KPro which I used to plug the IAT location in the intake manifold. I also have the Hondata 4-bar MAP sensor installed at the throttle body in this picture. To make space to remove the fuel rail during the fuel injector install, I had to remove my PCV and oil catch can hoses. There was a little bit of oil accumulated already in the Killer B Motorsport universal Air Oil Separator (oil catch can in generic terms). Everything was completely clean out of the AOS of course.
I found these values on the Hondata forum to use for the ID1050x injectors; sorry again for the blurry picture. There is a simple drop-down menu to select the Hondata 4-bar map sensor.
The car fired right up. The coolant temp and IATs were both at 75F before I started the engine, which was the temp inside my garage. I drove the car around a little bit until the coolant reached the temp you see here at 159F. The IAT dropped a little to 74F during the drive around the block, so it appears the IAT relocation was effective. If you recall, I adjusted my idle speed way back in the day to 950rpm to keep from shaking too much with the Hasport engine mounts. The car drove just fine, so I could drive it to Church Automotive Testing to have Shawn Church work his magic like he did when we first installed the KPro in Part 13.
Stay tuned, the next step at Chruch Automotive Testing is coming soon!
Sources
Garrett Motion
Hondata
Injector Dynamics
AEM Electronics
SPAL
2 comments
That’s the same pump I put in my tow pig. It’s a supercharged 454 making 450 or better at the crank with north of 600 ft/lb per Whipple. I checked the draw on the 15A fuse and determined this wasn’t going to put it over so didn’t bother with the hot wire. I figure it’s still way more pump than the motor needs. The local shop recommended the AEM as a lot of the others seem to be junk. Knock on wood, so far so good for me.
The stock Honda pump power wire is only ~16 AWG which is good for roughly 15A. The AEM 340 pulls up to 15A, so it would really max out the stock wiring. I’m much of the philosophy of overkill sizing for better reliability.