At this point it was time to use the “All Channels Live Data” feature of the Smartwire.
This would let us view the status of the inputs and outputs (voltages, currents, on/off status) in real-time, as well as to control outputs directly regardless of the input state (just click a checkbox to force the output on).
We went through and turned on each of the outputs and checked a few things with the multimeter. Then we went through and started flipping switches to observe that the Racepak Smartwire was turning on the correct outputs. Finally, we started to connect individual circuits (lamps, pumps, etc) and then validate the output currents. We went back into the various output channel configurations and adjusted fuse thresholds to a fair percentage above the average current to give us some wiggle room and not accidentally cut off a circuit too soon.
We had accidentally configured the headlamp current too low, and we noticed that, after leaving the headlamps on for a few minutes, they started to flash oddly. This was the independent output circuits blowing fuses and the Smartwire resetting them. It actually was kind of neat, but definitely not what we wanted. Fortunately, it was a super quick programming change to fix that situation. We only needed a USB cable and our laptop again, no fuse puller required.
With the Racepak fully configured, it was time to get ready to fire the car.
But first, we would need some fuel.
This is really getting exciting! I’m not sure why Tom looks so bored.
Houston, we have a problem.
When we installed the fuel cell in the car we never actually used it. The wiring project happened immediately after. That also meant that we had never adjusted the Fuelab pressure regulator, or even run any fuel through the system.
Since we had power to the chassis and we could power up the fuel pumps, we figured we would give things a try and make sure there were no leaks. Oh, boy, were there leaks!
Firstly, the banjo bolt on the back of the fuel rail uses a washer. That washer wasn’t properly aligned, and got mangled. That caused the banjo to spew fuel the moment we turned on the pumps. Whoops!
Once that was fixed, we then found our next problem. With the pumps running, there was an odd and ever so slight hissing sound. After some inspection in the engine bay, we realized the the injector o-rings were causing fuel to spray out of the rail. We quickly turned off the pumps and figured out what our next move would be.
For whatever reason, it was really, really hard to find an injector rebuild kit for Toyota 2JZ side-feed injectors. The non-turbo 2JZ Toyota injectors are top-feed. Toyota sells kits for the top-feed non-turbo injectors. Most people who do injector work on a turbo 2JZ go with a top-feed injector aftermarket fuel rail, but we had the stock side feeds. Our injectors were super ancient, and likely the original OEM injectors that came with the 1JZ head (our car is actually a 1.2JZ with a 1J head and a 2J VVT/NA bottom end). So the part numbers on them were bizarre and took some time to cross-reference.
In the end, we found Injector Rehab. While the rebuild kit was sold on eBay, and gave us some pause, it arrived quickly and was very complete. O-rings, vibration dampers, and new filters were all included.