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Project SC300 Road Racer: Part 27 – Joining a Wang Gang

  • Erik Jacobs
blue painters tape on carbon fiber trunk lid with some marking lines
Next, apply lots of tape in the areas where you will need to drill or mark for other measurements.

You’ll want to establish a center line reference first. Then measure the distance between your pylons. Then figure out half of that. Then measure from your centerline out by that half figure.

In other words, if your pylons are 20″ apart, you would want to make a mark 10″ from center on each side. This will roughly indicate where your pylon’s center line should sit. Note that your pylon’s tabs may not be exactly parallel to the centerline of your vehicle.

You’ll end up with a bunch of marks like this.

 

bolt, small drill bit, larger drill bit, sitting on blue painters tape on carbon fiber trunk lid
Once you have all your lines established and you’re comfortable with the positions, mark the tab’s hole locations.

Just make dots through the holes with a marker or pencil or something. I chose to drill a pilot hole, and then a hole slightly bigger than the bolt’s thread width.

 

holes drilled through marking tape
Nothing says race car quite like drilling holes into perfectly good surfaces.

Carbon fiber dust is nasty stuff. Use protection.

 

hole cutting bit
You’ll want a 3/4″ hole bit of some fashion, most likely.

Carbon fiber hoods and trunks especially have lots of support structure inside them. If one of your drilled holes ends up coming through one of these support ribs, you’ll need to make a large enough hole in the support rib in order to get clearance to get a socket onto the nut that goes on the backside of the bolt.

 

messy hole underneath trunk lid through support rib
Sure enough, one of my holes went right through some stuff.

Yes, that’s actually a bunch of crappy fiberglass on my carbon fiber trunk lid. If you recall this car’s history, it was actually abandoned at a stereo shop where it had been getting a system which included subs in the trunk lid. I did the best I could to chip it out and clean it up.

Anyway… once you clearance the holes on the underside, you can bolt the wing to the deck lid. You’ll want it tight, but it doesn’t have to be crazy tight. Remember that the wing is pushing down into the deck lid (downforce), not pulling up (lift), so they’re mostly there to keep things in place. That being said, too tight and you will crack your fiberglass/carbon fiber. You can be less careful on a metal lid.

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5 comments
  1. joe says:
    December 25, 2019 at 3:29 pm

    @cmj re-read page two:

    “But there’s an end to this means, I assure you. And it’s not another innuendo. I don’t think. If you look back to the photo of Rob, he’s taking a photo. In fact, he’s taking dozens of photos. You see, when you take dozens of photos from different angles of the speckled car, you can then use some really fancy computering to stitch all of the photos together to build a really accurate 3D model of the vehicle.”

    https://motoiq.com/project-sc300-road-racer-part-27-joining-a-wang-gang/2/

    Rob is using a regular digital camera and then stitching 2D photos together using software to build the 3D model.

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      December 26, 2019 at 12:27 pm

      @cmj re-read page two:

      “But there’s an end to this means, I assure you. And it’s not another innuendo. I don’t think. If you look back to the photo of Rob, he’s taking a photo. In fact, he’s taking dozens of photos. You see, when you take dozens of photos from different angles of the speckled car, you can then use some really fancy computering to stitch all of the photos together to build a really accurate 3D model of the vehicle.”

      https://motoiq.com/project-sc300-road-racer-part-27-joining-a-wang-gang/2/

      Rob is using a regular digital camera and then stitching 2D photos together using software to build the 3D model.

      Reply
  2. Def says:
    December 30, 2019 at 9:36 pm

    @cmj re-read page two:

    “But there’s an end to this means, I assure you. And it’s not another innuendo. I don’t think. If you look back to the photo of Rob, he’s taking a photo. In fact, he’s taking dozens of photos. You see, when you take dozens of photos from different angles of the speckled car, you can then use some really fancy computering to stitch all of the photos together to build a really accurate 3D model of the vehicle.”

    https://motoiq.com/project-sc300-road-racer-part-27-joining-a-wang-gang/2/

    Rob is using a regular digital camera and then stitching 2D photos together using software to build the 3D model.

    Reply
  3. cmj says:
    January 10, 2020 at 9:09 am

    @cmj re-read page two:

    “But there’s an end to this means, I assure you. And it’s not another innuendo. I don’t think. If you look back to the photo of Rob, he’s taking a photo. In fact, he’s taking dozens of photos. You see, when you take dozens of photos from different angles of the speckled car, you can then use some really fancy computering to stitch all of the photos together to build a really accurate 3D model of the vehicle.”

    https://motoiq.com/project-sc300-road-racer-part-27-joining-a-wang-gang/2/

    Rob is using a regular digital camera and then stitching 2D photos together using software to build the 3D model.

    Reply
    1. Erik Jacobs says:
      January 11, 2020 at 1:29 pm

      @cmj re-read page two:

      “But there’s an end to this means, I assure you. And it’s not another innuendo. I don’t think. If you look back to the photo of Rob, he’s taking a photo. In fact, he’s taking dozens of photos. You see, when you take dozens of photos from different angles of the speckled car, you can then use some really fancy computering to stitch all of the photos together to build a really accurate 3D model of the vehicle.”

      https://motoiq.com/project-sc300-road-racer-part-27-joining-a-wang-gang/2/

      Rob is using a regular digital camera and then stitching 2D photos together using software to build the 3D model.

      Reply

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