The no-name bootleg Chinese radiator on the car was also not up to snuff and the engine would tend to overheat. Ao we replaced it with a Koyorad Cooling Systems racing radiator. The Koyorad radiator has a triple pass core which is 20% more efficient than a typical single pass core. It also has a way thicker more efficient core with a good fin pitch that allows air to penetrate the thicker core for better heat exchange. We think that the Koyorad will absolutely end the car’s cooling issues.
The Koyorad radiator has strong tig welded end tanks and provisions for all the factory mounting points, so it will drop right into an S chassis. If desired, the factory fan shrouds and fans will bolt right on.
We also used Koyorad’s higher pressure racing cap. The higher pressures raises the coolant’s boiling point. Non-boiling coolant transfers heat much more effectively.
To keep the engine oil cooler we used this huge Koyorad 24 row oil cooler. Rathyna previously had no oil cooler on her engine and who knows how hot the oil was getting. Drift cars really thrash the oil and a cooler-less SR20DET will soon reach over 300 degrees under these conditions. Damage to bearings starts at 260 degrees. The Koyorad cooler will go a long way to keeping both the oil and overall engine temps down.
When the power steering gets hot the fluid boils and the pump stops working. This makes the steering get stiff suddenly without warning. This had been happening in the car in the middle of drift sessions. To cure this we installed this 10 row Koyorad oil cooler on the return line to the pump reservoir.
10 comments
Mike, planning to seal up the front end so air is forced through the cooler cores?
Not on a drift car.
any chance of offering that rear vent tube hard line? might be a seller.
Bring your ride to the MotoIQ Garage and we’ll gladly make one for you. But no, we won’t be making them in batches to sell.
i just might take you up on that sir!
Slightly banal nitpicking, but with such nice hoses you should really use band clamps that do not dig into the hoses. They are standard on VWs, which is one of the few things on Vdubs that are intelligently designed.
I’ve been meaning to improve the breather system on my SR20. My question is, can I remove the PCV valve and still have a suction hose on the the catch can? Meaning, Not vent the catch can atmospherically? I am currently running a MAF.
Hi Jose, in the case of a MAF equipped engine you can vent the catch can behind the MAF and in front of the turbo compressor inlet as in the case of OEM application. Be sure to put the vent as far away from the MAF as possible so blowby gasses don’t contaminate the hot wire.
Hey this is another one I wish would come back to the project pages
We are doing a much better car. https://motoiq.com/category/projects/nissan/s13-drift-grip-do-it-all-mega-240/