We set the alignment for street performance while maintaining decent tire wear for daily driving. We set the front camber at 2 degrees negative and the rear camber at 1.5 degrees negative. We used the slots in the ST Suspension strut housings to set the camber. We could center the front camber plates this way to keep the steering axis inclination and scrub radius even from side to side. This eliminates chances of pull to the side and keeps torque steer reasonably low. Here Jason sets the rear camber at 1.5 degrees negative.
Now the front struts are set at two degrees negative camber.
When setting the front toe, we noticed that whoever worked on the car did not use jamb nuts on the tie rods! The tie rods could just float and were unscrewing as the car was driven, this was causing large amounts of toe out, one of the reasons why the car was unstable! Eventually, the tie rods would have unscrewed causing a loss of steering! What mechanic would think this would be an ok thing to do? Supposedly the car was previously owned and worked on by a Subaru specialist mechanic.
5 comments
Worst mechanic ever?
I’ve seen far, far worse.
Finding a knowledgeable, competent, and trustworthy mechanic is a real challenge. I’ve found many factory/official dealerships to be disinterested in providing quality service, resulting in everything from misdiagnosed issues, to parts not even put back on the car!
Unfortunately, Moto IQ are located almost 16000 km away from me!
Is the service tool mentioned included with the purchase of the coil overs, or does it need to be purchased separately? If separately, what is the part number?
It’s actually a tool set and probably not justified unless you are a KW installer. You can hold the shaft with regular tools, it’s just not as handy.