The Ultimate DIY Alignment Rig
Shiny scale sitting on blue scale pad.
Here is the scale sitting in the scale pad, with the pad at the maximum height.

The steel scale pads are heavy, but they are considerably cheaper (1/3rd) than the billet option. There’s a little bit of play here and there, but once a ~3500lb car is sitting on everything, it’s not going anywhere.

 

Four NIMH and eight regular alkaline batteries in packaging laying on floor.
Tenergy batteries?

The scales come with 4 rechargeable batteries for the display. The display’s power adapter doubles as the charger, which is a nice feature. You don’t have to remove the batteries from the display to charge them. The scales use very little power, and Intercomp provides standard alkaline batteries to go with them. If you forget to turn the scales off, they will automatically power themselves off after a time, which is also nice.

 

Several international plug adapters.
A plethora of power plugs for a purpose.

Intercomp includes adapters for all manner of outlets, as these scales are shipped and sold worldwide. So, when I go big time and take the car to Japan or something, I’ll be able to charge my scales. Seriously though, if you are actually a legitimate racing team that travels globally, adapters are essential to you.

 

Each scale is labeled with the corner of the car it goes under.

Repeat after me: no matter how many times you check which scale went where, recheck it, and then check it again. Because if you have the two rear wheel scales reversed, you will spend many hours wondering why the car is not corner weighting right and why it has the stance of a circle track dirt car. Then you will discover the scales are reversed, and you will drown your sorrows in drink and quit for the day. Probably in that order.

 

Intercomp camber/caster gauge, tire pyrometer, air pressure gauge, and laser level, all sitting on their plastic cases.
Intercomp has been doing this for a long time, and they have a wide array of set up equipment on offer.

Other than the scales and wireless display, everything came with plastic carrying cases with foam cutouts to secure the devices. From left to right are a camber/caster gauge, a tire pyrometer (to take tire temps – bottom middle), a digital tire pressure gauge (top center), and the laser leveling system with one of its height meters.

17 comments

  1. palate / palette / pallet. Your “palate” is the roof of your mouth, and by extension, your sense of taste. A “palette” is the flat board an artist mixes paint on (or by extension, a range of colors). A “pallet” is either a bed (now rare) or a flat platform onto which goods are loaded.May 30, 2016

    palate / palette / pallet | Common Errors in English Usage and …
    brians.wsu.edu › 2016/05/30 › palate-palette-pallet
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    1. It’s funny – I looked at the spelling several times and was questioning it in my mind and didn’t bother to look it up. Thanks – I will go fix it 🙂

      1. A fantastic article overall, too many years doing newspaper and yearbook edits make me notice things like that. Can’t wait to see the car driven in anger.

    1. @mike it’s frustrating at first but now that I am learning how to do everything it’s becoming more enjoyable. Especially now that it’s all dialed in. I have probably re-done the same thing three or four times, and I probably have a few more re-dos still to go.

  2. Very impressive set-up. A question regarding the weight in the driver’s seat: for when you are corner weighing the vehicle, why not put some weight on the floor where your feet will be? You are clearly going to great lengths to maximize a lot of the systems on this car, so why not go this extra mile? Put a bathroom scale on the floor as far forward as the pedals/bulkhead will allow, sit in your normal driving position and read the scale to determine how much of your weight is not on your seat. Then, you can put some weight on the floor and put the rest in the seat. Necessary? No, but it’s more accurate than putting all of the weight in the seat. Just a suggestion.

    1. @banfstc you are correct. I had sent that picture to a buddy who does drag car chassis set up (Menscer Motorsports) and he more or less immediately made the same comment. Since that photo I have been putting one of the 45# plates on the floor just in front of the seat. Ideally I need to get additional small weights to do as you suggest — “lay” my weight out more realistically where it goes. That being said, my guess is that my feet by the pedals weigh on the order of 20# at most as I sit pretty deep in the seat. I’d be curious to see what moving 20# from the seat to the pedal box area will do to the corner weights. At some point I’ll report back on that for sure!

  3. Only half kidding. I am local and setting up my Lotus Esprit for track day fun. Adding lots of adjust ability to the suspension.

    Would you let me come by and guide me while I corner weight and align the car with your awesome gear?

    Happy to pay for the privilege. I realize it would probably take much of a day and it is a big ask.

    1. If you use Facebook, send me a message. Happy to talk about it. One requirement is that your car needs to be 5-lug. If it’s not, it won’t work (I only have the 5-lug plate). If you don’t use Facebook you can email me using my full name (Erik M Jacobs) to Gmail

  4. I’m always so confused by the enormous amount of time and money spent on this car. At this point, you’ve spent so much money on everything from overkill wiring to now pro-level alignment gear, you could have just bought a better starting point that didn’t need all this work. You’d also have more time behind the wheel where most of your lap time will come from. It’s a very thorough and impressive build, but it just doesn’t seem like the wisest route to a lap time.

    1. @hayes
      The journey is not about the destination.

      I could have bought an MX5 global cup car. I could have bought a used TA2. I could’ve bought a used Porsche or sorted PCA or other race car. This is a horrifically expensive build.

      Why? Why not?

      I wouldn’t have learned anything about wiring, fabrication, or building cars. I wouldn’t have had any of the experiences I’ve had in the building of it.

      Realizing your dream isn’t always about the end result. Sometimes it’s about the things that go into realizing the dream. Sometimes the dream itself loses its importance along the way, and it becomes all about the way and not the dream.

      If I had a dollar for every time I wanted to set this car on fire and give up, I’d have lots of dollars. You don’t see the heartbreak or the misery parts on MotoIQ. You get the happy bits at the end of figuring it out. Sometimes you see the un-fun things, but it would be really quite boring.

      I’m not much for the whole #builtnotbought movement, but there’s something to it. I often wish I could just send the car somewhere, stroke a check, and have it be a GT4-like end product.

      But that’s not what’s happened. And I wouldn’t have it any other way.

    1. @nikita yeah it would be nearly impossible to get the lugs lined up so that the hub stands would both be vertical. You definitely need a diff that has SOME level of independent movement, or you would need to come up with an alternate mounting stand where you could attach something to the hub and then be able to rotate the actual stand to be in the proper orientation. It would be….. hard.

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