,
Here are the spring seats in place.
Next, the valve seals were lubed up with regular motor oil.
The valve seals were gently tapped in place with a socket of the right size and an extension.
The valve seals and seats are now ready for the valves and springs.
The valve stems were lubricated with motor oil.
Next, the valves were carefully pushed through the valve guides and seals. The seals’ friction holds them in place.
13 comments
Very good write up I just wondered when you switched heads do you have to use k20 head parts or can you use the k24 parts in the new head ?
Yes you can.
What ecu did you guys use go run it i have hear that k pro cannot run it
It depends either K pro or K flash
Hey awesome write up but was there any modifications done to the k20z3 head for the oil passage or is it a straight up pug and play
You need to modify the front cover.
What exactly must be done to the front cover?
You have to weld a piece on to cover a place that is uncovered. It is pretty apparent when you put the cover against the block
How did u mofidy the sensor plates?
I am thinking to do the same for my Accord Euro CU2 (AUS). In US is called Acura TSX 2nd gen. Do you think the K24Z3 block will mate with K20Z3 cyl. head without any modification of the water passage?
I did this with a k20z1 head
https://www.k20a.org/threads/dc4-w-k24z3-tsx-block-k20z1-head-success.227640/
Awesome write up, I would have loved to see dyno numbers of this swap. I also have a k24z2 and I’m trying to find the best head to swap too. I really don’t want to change out all the internals. I’m not finding a lot of write ups for our engine sadly.
I have done this swap. I created a mini nsx engine lol 269.5 hp with 211 torque. All stock internals. Only thing not oem is a mild head port job.
Here is my thread :
https://www.k20a.org/threads/dc4-w-k24z3-tsx-block-k20z1-head-success.227640/