The cap is vented by way of a machined slot. The cap also came with this chain thing to prevent losing the cap, but I got rid of the chain thing. Weight reduction.
I mounted the tank so that the water pickup was at the rear. The water injection only occurs during acceleration, so having the water pickup at the back of the tank will minimize the risk of starvation to the pump. The new setup with the Boyd Welding aluminum tank is much cleaner than my prior setup.
I recommend letting distilled water sit in the tank for a while before installing the tank into the system. The distilled water will cause the bare aluminum to corrode until a layer of aluminum oxide is formed. I didn’t know this, so the first time I checked the tank after installing, I saw the cap in this condition and the water inside the tank was a bit murky. I drained the tank and the water has stayed clear since.
With the new wheel and tire setup, I was afraid I would get some rub. Well, I did get some rub as you can see by the black marks on the underside of the fender lip on the right side. There appears to have been some rubbing on the black plastic fender linear too. I was working my way up the G loading and this happened around 1.0G. I had already started working the fender in this picture to roll flatten the lip and pull the fender out a bit.
I used a heat gun and the end of the handle of a mallet to work the fender out. Stock, the fender lip is vertical. You can see I’ve pulled it out a chunk in this picture.
5 comments
Looking at stuff, I would say you need more roll stiffness, more negative camber, and less front caster.
I got shims from E-Motion to adjust the caster and camber. I just need to find time to adjust the alignment before my next track day. For more roll stiffness… I’ve been thinking about it for a while already. Commonly used is the Tractive setup, but Nitron released their new setup compatible with PASM/DSC. Looking at spring rates in the GT4 territory to keep that balance of streetability.
Can you please expand on the less front caster comment as it pertains to the 718 chassis? Is there a reason you suggest he might have too much and what would be a good target caster for a mixed use street/track 718?
It seems that it is common to end with 9 or 9.5 degrees caster on these cars.
Has anyone gotten these plugs yet? Seem like a decent upgrade.
Ruthenium HX is available in two designs to best maximize the performance of your engine.
DFE (double fine electrode) maximizes ignitability, while reducing emissions for low-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for non-turbo applications.
PSPE® (projected square platinum electrode) provides the best ignitability and service life for high-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for turbo and supercharged engines.
https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/products/ignition-parts/spark-plugs/ruthenium-spark-plugs
Interesting. I haven’t kept tabs on spark plug tech. The boring part of sticking with OEM plugs is that they are pre-gapped, ha.