All I did was heat up the fender and work it with the mallet handle using the tire as the pivot point.
I think I pulled out the fender about 10mm.
The inner fender liner didn’t stay attached to the pulled lip and it left this sharp edge.
So, I cut the edge off and grinded it down a bit too. You can see how much I pulled the fender out from this angle.
Pulling on the fender means the fender has to flex somewhere else. Here, you can see the fender liner doesn’t line up with the bottom rocker panel anymore.
5 comments
Looking at stuff, I would say you need more roll stiffness, more negative camber, and less front caster.
I got shims from E-Motion to adjust the caster and camber. I just need to find time to adjust the alignment before my next track day. For more roll stiffness… I’ve been thinking about it for a while already. Commonly used is the Tractive setup, but Nitron released their new setup compatible with PASM/DSC. Looking at spring rates in the GT4 territory to keep that balance of streetability.
Can you please expand on the less front caster comment as it pertains to the 718 chassis? Is there a reason you suggest he might have too much and what would be a good target caster for a mixed use street/track 718?
It seems that it is common to end with 9 or 9.5 degrees caster on these cars.
Has anyone gotten these plugs yet? Seem like a decent upgrade.
Ruthenium HX is available in two designs to best maximize the performance of your engine.
DFE (double fine electrode) maximizes ignitability, while reducing emissions for low-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for non-turbo applications.
PSPE® (projected square platinum electrode) provides the best ignitability and service life for high-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for turbo and supercharged engines.
https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/products/ignition-parts/spark-plugs/ruthenium-spark-plugs
Interesting. I haven’t kept tabs on spark plug tech. The boring part of sticking with OEM plugs is that they are pre-gapped, ha.