More gravel and rubber.
There was rubber stuck in the air vents in the front inner fender liner too.
I’m getting a bit of tire rub on the fender liner due to a combination of factors of my setup: taller than stock tire, a ton of castor, and I’m thinking stickier-than-stock tire contributes too.
It looks like I’m getting tire rub on the top of the wheel well too. And, all along the inner fender liner. At least I think it’s actual tire rub and not just tire rubber getting flung against it.
I added a sock typically used on brake fluid reservoirs around the cap of the water reservoir. With the water level near the top of the reservoir and aggressive driving, water was splashing out.
I took oil level measurements before and after the track days. 3.7mm is roughly 150 mL of oil lower after 12 track sessions. My S2000, when it was stock and using Mobil 1, would go through about 500 mL in 2 sessions. The oil consumption rate of the S2000 went significantly down after I added an oil cooler and changed to Motul 300V, but it was still around 3x higher oil consumption rate than my 718 is doing. I would say I did a good job breaking in the engine. I also had a 2006 Infiniti G35 which burned 500 mL in just a thousand miles of street driving; that year VQ35 had the cheap piston rings that would go bad after about 40k miles.
So, doing the spark plugs on a flat-4 engine wasn’t too bad. The water injection system did a good job of reducing the intake air temps. Based on the water consumption rate and data logs, I can increase the water injection rate a bit more the next time out. With the new wheel and tire package, I have exceeded the capabilities of the stock SPASM suspension. Even when I was on the stock tires, I was wearing down the air deflector located before the front tires during track use. For now, I’m going to take out some of the front castor to avoid the fender liner rub and add more negative camber front and rear. I’ve started looking at coilover setups, but we shall see what the budget allows.
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Looking at stuff, I would say you need more roll stiffness, more negative camber, and less front caster.
I got shims from E-Motion to adjust the caster and camber. I just need to find time to adjust the alignment before my next track day. For more roll stiffness… I’ve been thinking about it for a while already. Commonly used is the Tractive setup, but Nitron released their new setup compatible with PASM/DSC. Looking at spring rates in the GT4 territory to keep that balance of streetability.
Can you please expand on the less front caster comment as it pertains to the 718 chassis? Is there a reason you suggest he might have too much and what would be a good target caster for a mixed use street/track 718?
It seems that it is common to end with 9 or 9.5 degrees caster on these cars.
Has anyone gotten these plugs yet? Seem like a decent upgrade.
Ruthenium HX is available in two designs to best maximize the performance of your engine.
DFE (double fine electrode) maximizes ignitability, while reducing emissions for low-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for non-turbo applications.
PSPE® (projected square platinum electrode) provides the best ignitability and service life for high-heat engines. This NGK-patented design is recommended for turbo and supercharged engines.
https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/products/ignition-parts/spark-plugs/ruthenium-spark-plugs
Interesting. I haven’t kept tabs on spark plug tech. The boring part of sticking with OEM plugs is that they are pre-gapped, ha.