In order to get the gauges redone by Stu Hagen, you must remove them and send them off to him. We’ll start the removal of the cluster trim by taking out the handful of Phillips screws that hold in the cluster visor. If you have a Supra, take care of this part. Try not to scratch or break it because the part has been discontinued! Keep in mind there are two connectors on the back of this small panel for the odometer and hazards and blinkers and stuff. So don't get excited and yank too hard.
You may have noticed this car’s white-faced boost gauge, which is a 62mm Omori Boost/EGT dual gauge, with analog boost and digital EGT. Try to find that gauge on the internet! It’s been a great gauge, and extremely rare to find, but we’ll be replacing it soon as well in order to reinstall our factory HVAC vent in its place.
Once the clustor visor is removed (along with the odometer and wiring clips on the back—there should be two—out comes the instrument bezel, which should pop right off.
Next is the right instrument panel, which is held in by this one screw. Once removed, you should be able to gently pull the whole cluster out. Again, make sure to undo all connectors before fully removing the panel.
Here’s a picture of the right panel we’re removing. Pay special close attention to the multiple wiring connectors you’ll be removing, which are pictured on the left. Notice the scratches on this one. We’ll be replacing this panel soon as well. Unfortunately, these genuine Toyota parts don’t come cheap!
For those of you that know your way around a Supra's interior, you may notice the black gauge on the left–a dual digital Oil/Water temp gauge from SPA Technique–which took the place of the factory clock (can you believe those ugly clocks are nearly $300 from the dealer?). On the right, the white-faced Omori boost and EGT dual gauge took place of one of the air vents. The plan is to get that vent back, and we'll also be replacing the SPA gauge with a boost gauge we designed to match our new factory gauges, which will be featured in Part 12.
A similar screw holds the left panel in. Upon removal, this panel should pop off as well. You should have two connectors on the left that must be attended to.