I have been driving the car around with the turbo installed to help troubleshoot all the small issues. That, and I just like driving the car because of all the fun mods on it that make it fun to drive. I have also been installing parts bit by bit and learned some interesting things along the way. This is the progress after a few hundred miles and some of the things learned.
The first things required to get the car running were the oil lines from Dyme PSI. They had the oil lines ready for me in a day and they fit perfectly. You can see how the oil drain line runs parallel with the compressor outlet pipe.
The other end of the oil drain line was screwed onto the welded fitting on the timing chain cover.
The other two oil lines from Dyme PSI required to get the car running were the oil lines from the Improved Racing remote oil filter take-off adapter to the Improved Racing remote oil filter mount. As you can see, it is all a tight fit. The fitment was tested with the Dyme PSI Rattlesnack kit and then when the real lines were made, they fit perfectly. They had to because of the lack of space.
Yup, it’s a tight fit against the A/C line.
The oil lines snake between the frame rail and the steering rack. Dyme PSI included sleeves over the oil lines to protect them.
14 comments
Hey, if it’s not too late or too much of a pain in the ass to remove the oil lines with the heat sleeve on them, you may want to pull them off and get some of the adhesive lined heat shrink to put over the end of the sleeve. Keeps the fiberglass insulation from fraying/getting wet. Awesome build so far, cant wait to see it running!
I have super limited wrench time right now, so it has to go 100% to getting this car done. Good advice though!
Such a cool and detailed project. The packaging does not look fun at all. One has to wonder if a centrifugal supercharger would make more sense? e.g. something procharger or rotrex based. good high RPM power, less heat issues in engine bay, maybe better overall packaging?
Have you read the first 32 parts before commenting on this article, part 33?
A supercharger setup won’t do 320 torque crank at 3250rpm 🙂 I think my setup will do it on 91 octane. That’s the target at least! Double what a stock S2k will do and hold that torque flat to redline for 500hp crank at 8200rpm. I want double the mid-range torque to make the car more fun and useable on the street.
I am just so glad to see you get this far! Kudos! Can’t wait for a dyno pull, though!
Man….. FMIC for the win buddy, I’d tear all that out and start again
Have you read the first 32 parts before commenting on this article, part 33?
If it were a track car, air to air all the way. I’m targeting max response for the street, so minimizing the IC plumbing length along with keeping the intake air temps cool even from a stop. Sitting at a stop, I can have the SPAL fan going (A/C turned on) to keep the coolant cool and basically keep the IATs at ambient even leaving from a stop. Even without the SPAL fan running, there is a lot more thermal mass with the coolant in the IC system to reduce heat soak.
My goodness that’s a lot of careful packaging. Look forwards to when you can see what it’s all capable of!
Can’t quite tell from the picture of your I/C water pump but it doesn’t look rubber mounted, if you had some way to isolate it from the chassis the noise might be significantly reduced.
There’s a better picture in the link below. It’s a rubber mount/sleeve the pump slides into. Once the engine is running, you cannot hear the pump from inside the car. Outside the car, you really have to listen for it and stand near the corner where the pump is mounted to notice it. So no more worries on pump noise! I was over-thinking things a bit there.
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-30-cooling-upgrades-and-packaging-improvements/5/
I had a W2A intercooler whose core loved back by the firewall. Silly me never ran a reservoir and that thing got HOT but wasn’t prone to puking. Yours is a much better setup, and I probably read it 20 episodes ago, but do you have a hood vent or something to keep the engine heat from dumping into the core? Being in front of the heat source helps I’m sure
No more vented track hood in order to stay low key. I have the air deflector underneath the intercooler core to shield it from the warm air from the radiator. The coolant pump runs 100% of the time for the IC so it’ll cool the core anytime I’m not boosting. At the situation of sitting at a stop light, I can turn on the A/C to run the fans including the fan on the heat exchanger for the IC system. I’ve tested it where if I turn on the A/C and run the heater at full blast, it’ll pull the engine coolant temp down pretty quickly. Even below the thermostat setting for a bit before the thermostat adjusts. Though in everyday driving, that won’t be necessary as I’ll be traction limited in first gear anyway.