2.5” duct hose was too big to fit through the openings in the Honda stiffening bracket, so I transitioned down to 2” hose to squeeze through.
The 2” duct squeezes through this opening in the fender and feeds cool air straight to the air filter. I’m debating on attaching the windshield washer fluid bag to the radiator post as the final mounting solution and also having it just sit on top of the air deflector plate.
This is the opening in the Cusco air deflector and you can see the straight shot to the air gap in the front bumper. I bought the Cusco because it was the cheapest and you get what you pay for as they say. The fitment wasn’t all that great and Chris at Eimer Engineering had to do some extra trimming around the openings around the hood release latch to make it fit. That said, the modifications were easy and I’d do it again and save $100 over some of the other options. I also painted it flat black because I’m not a fan of the Cusco blue.
Lots of times, going back and looking at things a second (or fifth) time results in finding a better solution. Originally, I had the pump with the outlet pointing straight up. By rotating the pump 45 degrees, I was able to eliminate a section of hose with a 90-degree bend reducing the pressure drop in the system just that little bit more.
I had to trim some of the fender lining to make space for the intercooler coolant hose.
I used the Mity Vac to pull vacuum on the coolant system for the air to water intercooler to help get all the air out. The Mity Vac is a favorite tool and I am sad I only discovered it now. I used one at work and liked it so much, I bought myself one for ~$50 from my local Harbor Freight. The kit came with this little suction cup thing and I pulled air through the breather in the Moroso cap on the reservoir.
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Hey, if it’s not too late or too much of a pain in the ass to remove the oil lines with the heat sleeve on them, you may want to pull them off and get some of the adhesive lined heat shrink to put over the end of the sleeve. Keeps the fiberglass insulation from fraying/getting wet. Awesome build so far, cant wait to see it running!
I have super limited wrench time right now, so it has to go 100% to getting this car done. Good advice though!
Such a cool and detailed project. The packaging does not look fun at all. One has to wonder if a centrifugal supercharger would make more sense? e.g. something procharger or rotrex based. good high RPM power, less heat issues in engine bay, maybe better overall packaging?
Have you read the first 32 parts before commenting on this article, part 33?
A supercharger setup won’t do 320 torque crank at 3250rpm 🙂 I think my setup will do it on 91 octane. That’s the target at least! Double what a stock S2k will do and hold that torque flat to redline for 500hp crank at 8200rpm. I want double the mid-range torque to make the car more fun and useable on the street.
I am just so glad to see you get this far! Kudos! Can’t wait for a dyno pull, though!
Man….. FMIC for the win buddy, I’d tear all that out and start again
Have you read the first 32 parts before commenting on this article, part 33?
If it were a track car, air to air all the way. I’m targeting max response for the street, so minimizing the IC plumbing length along with keeping the intake air temps cool even from a stop. Sitting at a stop, I can have the SPAL fan going (A/C turned on) to keep the coolant cool and basically keep the IATs at ambient even leaving from a stop. Even without the SPAL fan running, there is a lot more thermal mass with the coolant in the IC system to reduce heat soak.
My goodness that’s a lot of careful packaging. Look forwards to when you can see what it’s all capable of!
Can’t quite tell from the picture of your I/C water pump but it doesn’t look rubber mounted, if you had some way to isolate it from the chassis the noise might be significantly reduced.
There’s a better picture in the link below. It’s a rubber mount/sleeve the pump slides into. Once the engine is running, you cannot hear the pump from inside the car. Outside the car, you really have to listen for it and stand near the corner where the pump is mounted to notice it. So no more worries on pump noise! I was over-thinking things a bit there.
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-30-cooling-upgrades-and-packaging-improvements/5/
I had a W2A intercooler whose core loved back by the firewall. Silly me never ran a reservoir and that thing got HOT but wasn’t prone to puking. Yours is a much better setup, and I probably read it 20 episodes ago, but do you have a hood vent or something to keep the engine heat from dumping into the core? Being in front of the heat source helps I’m sure
No more vented track hood in order to stay low key. I have the air deflector underneath the intercooler core to shield it from the warm air from the radiator. The coolant pump runs 100% of the time for the IC so it’ll cool the core anytime I’m not boosting. At the situation of sitting at a stop light, I can turn on the A/C to run the fans including the fan on the heat exchanger for the IC system. I’ve tested it where if I turn on the A/C and run the heater at full blast, it’ll pull the engine coolant temp down pretty quickly. Even below the thermostat setting for a bit before the thermostat adjusts. Though in everyday driving, that won’t be necessary as I’ll be traction limited in first gear anyway.