Project S2000: Part 33 – Turbo Installed (Not Yet Boosting) and Sorting Things Out

For the boost reference, I found a steel fitting off of McMaster-Carr to thread into the compressor housing.

The two boost lines going to the wastegate now have plenty of space to go behind the trimmed header heat shield. We had to trim the heatshield a bit for the HPS heater hose previously and now we had to trim a bit more for the wastegate lines.

I had some DEI exhaust wrap which I put around the Hasport engine mount to protect it from the heat of the Garrett turbine housing. Yeah, the turbine housing has Swain Tech White Lightning thermal barrier ceramic coating, but it still puts off some heat.

That braided steel line is one of the turbo coolant lines which runs close to the manifold. I added two layers of the DEI exhaust wrap to the manifold runner to prevent heating and damaging the turbo coolant line.

When installing the coolant lines to the turbo, that added extra coolant volume to the system that had to be filled. I used a Mity Vac hand vacuum pump to pull coolant through the turbo and then I topped off the coolant in the radiator.

14 comments

  1. Hey, if it’s not too late or too much of a pain in the ass to remove the oil lines with the heat sleeve on them, you may want to pull them off and get some of the adhesive lined heat shrink to put over the end of the sleeve. Keeps the fiberglass insulation from fraying/getting wet. Awesome build so far, cant wait to see it running!

    1. I have super limited wrench time right now, so it has to go 100% to getting this car done. Good advice though!

  2. Such a cool and detailed project. The packaging does not look fun at all. One has to wonder if a centrifugal supercharger would make more sense? e.g. something procharger or rotrex based. good high RPM power, less heat issues in engine bay, maybe better overall packaging?

    1. A supercharger setup won’t do 320 torque crank at 3250rpm 🙂 I think my setup will do it on 91 octane. That’s the target at least! Double what a stock S2k will do and hold that torque flat to redline for 500hp crank at 8200rpm. I want double the mid-range torque to make the car more fun and useable on the street.

    1. If it were a track car, air to air all the way. I’m targeting max response for the street, so minimizing the IC plumbing length along with keeping the intake air temps cool even from a stop. Sitting at a stop, I can have the SPAL fan going (A/C turned on) to keep the coolant cool and basically keep the IATs at ambient even leaving from a stop. Even without the SPAL fan running, there is a lot more thermal mass with the coolant in the IC system to reduce heat soak.

  3. My goodness that’s a lot of careful packaging. Look forwards to when you can see what it’s all capable of!

  4. Can’t quite tell from the picture of your I/C water pump but it doesn’t look rubber mounted, if you had some way to isolate it from the chassis the noise might be significantly reduced.

  5. I had a W2A intercooler whose core loved back by the firewall. Silly me never ran a reservoir and that thing got HOT but wasn’t prone to puking. Yours is a much better setup, and I probably read it 20 episodes ago, but do you have a hood vent or something to keep the engine heat from dumping into the core? Being in front of the heat source helps I’m sure

    1. No more vented track hood in order to stay low key. I have the air deflector underneath the intercooler core to shield it from the warm air from the radiator. The coolant pump runs 100% of the time for the IC so it’ll cool the core anytime I’m not boosting. At the situation of sitting at a stop light, I can turn on the A/C to run the fans including the fan on the heat exchanger for the IC system. I’ve tested it where if I turn on the A/C and run the heater at full blast, it’ll pull the engine coolant temp down pretty quickly. Even below the thermostat setting for a bit before the thermostat adjusts. Though in everyday driving, that won’t be necessary as I’ll be traction limited in first gear anyway.

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