Project S2000: Part 33 – Turbo Installed (Not Yet Boosting) and Sorting Things Out

I designed this fitting to relocate the air intake temperature sensor to the charge pipe between the intercooler and the throttle body and a buddy welded it up for me. If you recall, Honda put the sensor in the intake manifold up until the 2006 model year and it reads way hotter than ambient. The new sensor location will give an accurate measurement of the air temp entering the engine and allow better tuning.

To prevent boost leaks at o-ring joints, you have to design for proper compression of the o-ring. So I designed the depth of the counterbore to allow for ~50% compression of the o-ring once the sensor is screwed down.

Here you can see the probe of the temperature sensor poking into the airstream.

I thought about spray painting the air piping flat black like I did the two air deflector panels, but black absorbs radiant heat. We don’t want to heat up our air. Shiny aluminum is pretty good at reflecting radiant heat, so I used a scotch brite pad to just clean up the aluminum a bit. In this picture, I have cleaned up part of the BOV recirculation tube and still had the rest of the intake pipe to go over.

This is my plumbing for the Killer B Motorsport Universal Air Oil Separator. Some interesting lessons learned sorting this one out. The two brass cylinders are check valves (McMaster-Carr part number 7775K52). When the engine is in vacuum, the vacuum source for the AOS is the intake manifold. When the engine is in boost, the one check valve is closed and the other check valve that is plumbed to the intake tube will open (once there’s enough intake pressure depression). Therefore, the AOS will always be getting vacuum. To simplify the plumbing, I ended up putting a K&N breather filter on the valve cover.

14 comments

  1. Hey, if it’s not too late or too much of a pain in the ass to remove the oil lines with the heat sleeve on them, you may want to pull them off and get some of the adhesive lined heat shrink to put over the end of the sleeve. Keeps the fiberglass insulation from fraying/getting wet. Awesome build so far, cant wait to see it running!

    1. I have super limited wrench time right now, so it has to go 100% to getting this car done. Good advice though!

  2. Such a cool and detailed project. The packaging does not look fun at all. One has to wonder if a centrifugal supercharger would make more sense? e.g. something procharger or rotrex based. good high RPM power, less heat issues in engine bay, maybe better overall packaging?

    1. A supercharger setup won’t do 320 torque crank at 3250rpm 🙂 I think my setup will do it on 91 octane. That’s the target at least! Double what a stock S2k will do and hold that torque flat to redline for 500hp crank at 8200rpm. I want double the mid-range torque to make the car more fun and useable on the street.

    1. If it were a track car, air to air all the way. I’m targeting max response for the street, so minimizing the IC plumbing length along with keeping the intake air temps cool even from a stop. Sitting at a stop, I can have the SPAL fan going (A/C turned on) to keep the coolant cool and basically keep the IATs at ambient even leaving from a stop. Even without the SPAL fan running, there is a lot more thermal mass with the coolant in the IC system to reduce heat soak.

  3. My goodness that’s a lot of careful packaging. Look forwards to when you can see what it’s all capable of!

  4. Can’t quite tell from the picture of your I/C water pump but it doesn’t look rubber mounted, if you had some way to isolate it from the chassis the noise might be significantly reduced.

  5. I had a W2A intercooler whose core loved back by the firewall. Silly me never ran a reservoir and that thing got HOT but wasn’t prone to puking. Yours is a much better setup, and I probably read it 20 episodes ago, but do you have a hood vent or something to keep the engine heat from dumping into the core? Being in front of the heat source helps I’m sure

    1. No more vented track hood in order to stay low key. I have the air deflector underneath the intercooler core to shield it from the warm air from the radiator. The coolant pump runs 100% of the time for the IC so it’ll cool the core anytime I’m not boosting. At the situation of sitting at a stop light, I can turn on the A/C to run the fans including the fan on the heat exchanger for the IC system. I’ve tested it where if I turn on the A/C and run the heater at full blast, it’ll pull the engine coolant temp down pretty quickly. Even below the thermostat setting for a bit before the thermostat adjusts. Though in everyday driving, that won’t be necessary as I’ll be traction limited in first gear anyway.

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