Project S2000: Part 33 – Turbo Installed (Not Yet Boosting) and Sorting Things Out

The interesting bit that happened while testing was when I removed the stock PCV from the valve cover and replaced with it an open flowing fitting. What happens is the stock PCV is actually a bit of a flow restrictor. By replacing it with a completely open fitting, a vacuum leak path is essentially created with air able to be sucked into the engine by way of the valve cover breather. The result was a jumpy and high idle. After I put the stock PCV back in, the engine idled perfectly again.

I used the Mity Vac to test the operation of the check valves. Here you can see the valve staying shut and holding a vacuum showing the valve was operating as designed.

I used the Mity Vac to check the PCV was operating properly.

Aside from being able to buy all sorts of hoses, clamps, and fittings from McMaster, you can buy Gatorade too! My local grocery store and Home Depot do not carry Gatorade in powder form. Lowes does, but they are a bit of a drive from my home.

Eimer Engineering did a great job placing the Ford Shelby GT500 heat exchanger into the front bumper opening. There’s an air gap above the heat exchanger allowing cool air to go around the heat exchanger. The Baero bumper duct provides another source of cold air for the turbo intake.

I got the Baero front bumper ducts with the 2.5” hose end.

14 comments

  1. Hey, if it’s not too late or too much of a pain in the ass to remove the oil lines with the heat sleeve on them, you may want to pull them off and get some of the adhesive lined heat shrink to put over the end of the sleeve. Keeps the fiberglass insulation from fraying/getting wet. Awesome build so far, cant wait to see it running!

    1. I have super limited wrench time right now, so it has to go 100% to getting this car done. Good advice though!

  2. Such a cool and detailed project. The packaging does not look fun at all. One has to wonder if a centrifugal supercharger would make more sense? e.g. something procharger or rotrex based. good high RPM power, less heat issues in engine bay, maybe better overall packaging?

    1. A supercharger setup won’t do 320 torque crank at 3250rpm 🙂 I think my setup will do it on 91 octane. That’s the target at least! Double what a stock S2k will do and hold that torque flat to redline for 500hp crank at 8200rpm. I want double the mid-range torque to make the car more fun and useable on the street.

    1. If it were a track car, air to air all the way. I’m targeting max response for the street, so minimizing the IC plumbing length along with keeping the intake air temps cool even from a stop. Sitting at a stop, I can have the SPAL fan going (A/C turned on) to keep the coolant cool and basically keep the IATs at ambient even leaving from a stop. Even without the SPAL fan running, there is a lot more thermal mass with the coolant in the IC system to reduce heat soak.

  3. My goodness that’s a lot of careful packaging. Look forwards to when you can see what it’s all capable of!

  4. Can’t quite tell from the picture of your I/C water pump but it doesn’t look rubber mounted, if you had some way to isolate it from the chassis the noise might be significantly reduced.

  5. I had a W2A intercooler whose core loved back by the firewall. Silly me never ran a reservoir and that thing got HOT but wasn’t prone to puking. Yours is a much better setup, and I probably read it 20 episodes ago, but do you have a hood vent or something to keep the engine heat from dumping into the core? Being in front of the heat source helps I’m sure

    1. No more vented track hood in order to stay low key. I have the air deflector underneath the intercooler core to shield it from the warm air from the radiator. The coolant pump runs 100% of the time for the IC so it’ll cool the core anytime I’m not boosting. At the situation of sitting at a stop light, I can turn on the A/C to run the fans including the fan on the heat exchanger for the IC system. I’ve tested it where if I turn on the A/C and run the heater at full blast, it’ll pull the engine coolant temp down pretty quickly. Even below the thermostat setting for a bit before the thermostat adjusts. Though in everyday driving, that won’t be necessary as I’ll be traction limited in first gear anyway.

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