Here is a look at the Dyme Psi oil lines connecting to the Improved Racing take-off adapter. I had to add about an extra quart of oil to fill the added volume of the oil lines.
It’s a tight fit, orienting the Ark Design sandwich plate just right to have the oil pressure and temperature sensors clear the A/C line.
I drove for a bit before I could get the coolant lines to the stock oil cooler donut. In highway cruising with ambient temps in the 90degF range, the oil temp was around 105degC with the A/C blowing. After I got the coolant lines installed, the oil temps dropped to about 94degC in the same conditions with the A/C running. Yes, it’s all a tight fit. I used a zip-tie to hold the coolant lines together for a little cleaner routing.
Here are the other ends of the coolant lines attaching to the engine. One more zip-tie to keep the coolant lines together.
I took this picture to show the clearance of the turbo, wastegate, v-bands, and fluid lines to the frame rail. Yeah, I made it a bit of a tight fit. Of the four bolts to hold on the header heat shield, I can only use the front two. The third one sits right where the v-band for the turbine housing sits. The fourth bolt sits where the wastegate sits.
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Hey, if it’s not too late or too much of a pain in the ass to remove the oil lines with the heat sleeve on them, you may want to pull them off and get some of the adhesive lined heat shrink to put over the end of the sleeve. Keeps the fiberglass insulation from fraying/getting wet. Awesome build so far, cant wait to see it running!
I have super limited wrench time right now, so it has to go 100% to getting this car done. Good advice though!
Such a cool and detailed project. The packaging does not look fun at all. One has to wonder if a centrifugal supercharger would make more sense? e.g. something procharger or rotrex based. good high RPM power, less heat issues in engine bay, maybe better overall packaging?
Have you read the first 32 parts before commenting on this article, part 33?
A supercharger setup won’t do 320 torque crank at 3250rpm 🙂 I think my setup will do it on 91 octane. That’s the target at least! Double what a stock S2k will do and hold that torque flat to redline for 500hp crank at 8200rpm. I want double the mid-range torque to make the car more fun and useable on the street.
I am just so glad to see you get this far! Kudos! Can’t wait for a dyno pull, though!
Man….. FMIC for the win buddy, I’d tear all that out and start again
Have you read the first 32 parts before commenting on this article, part 33?
If it were a track car, air to air all the way. I’m targeting max response for the street, so minimizing the IC plumbing length along with keeping the intake air temps cool even from a stop. Sitting at a stop, I can have the SPAL fan going (A/C turned on) to keep the coolant cool and basically keep the IATs at ambient even leaving from a stop. Even without the SPAL fan running, there is a lot more thermal mass with the coolant in the IC system to reduce heat soak.
My goodness that’s a lot of careful packaging. Look forwards to when you can see what it’s all capable of!
Can’t quite tell from the picture of your I/C water pump but it doesn’t look rubber mounted, if you had some way to isolate it from the chassis the noise might be significantly reduced.
There’s a better picture in the link below. It’s a rubber mount/sleeve the pump slides into. Once the engine is running, you cannot hear the pump from inside the car. Outside the car, you really have to listen for it and stand near the corner where the pump is mounted to notice it. So no more worries on pump noise! I was over-thinking things a bit there.
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-30-cooling-upgrades-and-packaging-improvements/5/
I had a W2A intercooler whose core loved back by the firewall. Silly me never ran a reservoir and that thing got HOT but wasn’t prone to puking. Yours is a much better setup, and I probably read it 20 episodes ago, but do you have a hood vent or something to keep the engine heat from dumping into the core? Being in front of the heat source helps I’m sure
No more vented track hood in order to stay low key. I have the air deflector underneath the intercooler core to shield it from the warm air from the radiator. The coolant pump runs 100% of the time for the IC so it’ll cool the core anytime I’m not boosting. At the situation of sitting at a stop light, I can turn on the A/C to run the fans including the fan on the heat exchanger for the IC system. I’ve tested it where if I turn on the A/C and run the heater at full blast, it’ll pull the engine coolant temp down pretty quickly. Even below the thermostat setting for a bit before the thermostat adjusts. Though in everyday driving, that won’t be necessary as I’ll be traction limited in first gear anyway.