Project SC300 Road Racer: Part 23 – Wider is better! Getting Clearance with a Wide Body Kit.
trim piece at back of side skirt in rear fender area
There are some screws holding another trim piece at the front of the rear fender well, and, beneath that trim piece, is a screw for the side skirt.

There was also a screw or two at the front of the side skirt.

Mission accomplished!

 

leaves, gravel, and other dirt on garage floor
Wow, there was a lot of crap buried up underneath those front fenders.

 

two front fenders and two side skirts laying in driveway
Side skirts and fenders removed. Now to take off the rear bumper!

 

View inside trunk of quarter panel where rear bumper attaches
Most of the rear bumper fasteners are “hidden” behind stuff.

If you had an interior, you’d have to take it all out to get down to here to remove the rear bumper. There are various studs that stick through into the trunk and you remove the nuts from there. You also need to remove the headlights to access some of the retainers that sit under there. And, finally, at the top center part of the trunk you will need to remove a factory trim piece to get the last of the retainers.

My car, fortunately, was missing most of that hardware, since it was attached well enough… I think.

 

stud plate riveted to rear bumper with stud sticking up into view
There are a few of these strips/plates that have studs in them.

On my car, two of the strips were riveted to the bumper, and the other two just fell out. Don’t lose them. You need these strips to go through the holes in the bumper and then into the holes in the chassis, and the nuts go on from inside the trunk. This pulls the studs into the trunk which pulls the rear bumper onto the car.

5 comments

    1. You’re not kidding @MattAtRedondo ! Sometimes you have to step back and look at the long path you took to get you are before you can appreciate it.

      Just don’t try to add up all the dollars you spent. That’s a bad idea!

  1. Those wheels look amazing. As an aside, you really should always run valve caps at the track. I run the little plastic ones because as you mentioned – every ounce counts.

    I’ve had debris or dirt get into the stem from an off track excursion and cause a deflation. Caps eliminate that possibility. Looking forward to the next installment.

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