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Project STurdteen: Building the SR20DET Engine

  • Mike Kojima

To assure good head seal even with boost and drifting abuse, we used a JE Pro Seal head gasket.  The Pro Seal gasket is an MLS type gasket which uses multiple layers of thin stainless steel which are polymer coated to form a tough and forgiving seal to the block.  A folded stopper layer is used around the cylinders to give increased clamp load to further improve the seal.  The folded stopper really helps on boosted engines.

Since oil control is critical in a boosted engine we installed an Ishiwata-Johnson crank scraper and windage tray.  This piece is the scraper which wipes oil from the crank and helps strip the windage cloud away from the rotating crank and rods.  It aids in oil return to the pan, reduces oil aeration and oil temperature.  It also frees up a few horsepower.  More oil in the pan and less twisting around the spinning crack getting frothed up and increasing friction is a good thing.

This part is the windage tray, it also helps strip the cloud of oil off the crank, helps deaerate it and returns it to the sump quickly.  These parts reduce entrapped air in the oil which makes a huge difference in bearing load capacity, reduce oil consumption, reduce friction, increase power and lower oil temperature.

We used ARP studs for the main caps and cylinder heads.  The studs replace the stock torque to yield bolts and allow higher torque for increased clamp loads and do not stretch out of shape with each torque down like stock. ARP studs are made of 8740 chromoly steel. 8740 has superior strength over a more common chromoly like 4130 because it has a higher carbon content and responds to heat treatment better.  It also makes use of nickel as an alloying element which increases toughness.  8740 has a very high tensile strength of around 200,000 PSI. The ARP studs and bolts also have several design features like rolled (superior to cut threads due to good grain formation in the thread root) asymmetrical J-form threads with more engagement area on the stressed side and a reduced center diameter to reduce stress risers. ARP studs and bolts, when applicable, also have high quality forged nuts and precision ground and hardened washers for accurate torque and positive retention.

Howard started to assemble the engine by hanging the pistons on the rods and putting the rings on the pistons. The rod bolts were lubricated with assembly lube to assure accurate torque readings.

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19 comments
  1. Priit says:
    April 1, 2019 at 4:45 am

    Why not OEM main studs?

    Reply
  2. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
    April 1, 2019 at 11:42 am

    For competition engines, I prefer not to use them because they are torque to yield and they stretch and take a set. They can only be reused maybe once and it’s a good idea to change them every time on a serious engine.

    Reply
    1. Derek says:
      June 24, 2020 at 6:05 am

      Mr. Kojima,

      How do I get in touch with you on building a Ford V6 motor?

      Reply
  3. iam says:
    April 2, 2019 at 8:35 am

    for the mains, did you guys use arp’s torque spec or something else? I always thought it was a bit high

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      April 2, 2019 at 5:29 pm

      We split the difference. ARP’s torque spec is too high and the threads might pull out.

      Reply
      1. JR Crosby says:
        April 8, 2019 at 6:32 am

        What does ARP call for and what did you guys end up going with?

        Reply
        1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
          April 8, 2019 at 11:54 am

          ARP states 80 ft/lbs we think that’s too much. We use 65 ft lbs.

          Reply
  4. Jeff says:
    April 3, 2019 at 12:09 pm

    No WPC this time?

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      April 4, 2019 at 11:05 pm

      No not on this engine.

      Reply
  5. Joe says:
    April 9, 2019 at 6:23 pm

    Low Silicone…hehe, I hope those pistons don’t need big boobs.

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      April 9, 2019 at 9:09 pm

      stupid autocorrect

      Reply
  6. Chris says:
    April 16, 2019 at 10:34 am

    Are you modifying the upper oil pan to clear the windage tray or did you find/make a spacer? the jet nuts on my tray touch the upper pan and require me to mod my pan.

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      April 16, 2019 at 12:00 pm

      It’s weird on my FWD engine we did have to mod the pan but on this RWD engine, we didn’t.

      Reply
  7. Daniel says:
    February 3, 2023 at 2:47 pm

    Hi!

    When would you say the HP limit is for OEM MAIN bolts?
    Thanks.
    //Daniel

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      February 4, 2023 at 12:54 am

      They must be replaced every time but around 500 hp

      Reply
  8. Daniel says:
    February 8, 2023 at 4:30 am

    Thank you. Did you also made an Aline bore after fitting the ARP’s?

    Thanks!

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      February 8, 2023 at 11:11 pm

      We always check and in this case no. For Subarus yes 100% of the time.

      Reply
  9. Daniel says:
    September 16, 2024 at 1:33 am

    Hi!

    As for rods of this kind, does it matter wich side of the rod that will face front of the engine?
    I was thinking of the tang grooves especially, on thrust or non thrust side. Or it doesnt really matter?

    Thanks in advance.
    //Daniel

    Reply
    1. Avatar photo Mike Kojima says:
      September 16, 2024 at 7:18 am

      No

      Reply

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